Other than the neatness, how do you think I wired the ballast? The wires were clearly labled, and I used crimp on wire Joiners instead of wirenuts.
And how good do you think the ballast is mounted? It was kind of hard to mount it, I am not even sure how the brackets were made and what they are supposed to be on.
Those already had caps on them. The 480v one was pre-stripped and the 120v was capped, so I stripped the 120v and used one of my wire crimpers for the 480v one.
I dunno why every one BUT the 480v was capped, I guedd they thought the user would use 480v. xD
But why don't they just do what my cooper Multi-tap ballast did? Every wire on the OVZ ballast was attached to the ballast, but the input taps were just male slip on connectors popping out. They should do that with most ballasts with a wire attached to one of those male slip ons for the input.
But NOW the stupid REFLECTOR screw hole is stripped completely. I put a screw in it it won't tighten.
If the M-250 R2 didn't have a stupid one screw holding the complete reflector in I wouldn't have to tighten the screw so much to where it won't wiggle around and the reflector stays PUT.
I remember stripping out one of the screw holes in the M-400 R2 (First one that is 400w HPS) and all I did was put some epoxy in it and let it dry for a while, and then the screw hole fit the screw in just fine again. I was thinking about doing that.
Don't you have google?! anyways, it taps the hole for the screw
THIS IS A SELF-TAPPING SCREW:
THIS IS A STANDARD SCREW:
The self tapping screw has a ridge on the end that taps the hole. You can buy some at a hardware store. I love self-tapping screws. That's why i use PVC when i make homebrew lights. All you need is a screwdriver and self-tapping screws.
Since Ian's trying to tap into metal these would be better:
They're called self tapping machine screws, you can tell them apart from the ridges on the end that helps to cut the threads. My Powerlite used that type of screws since the holes aren't tapped after casting.
every reflector in every M-250R2 i've worked with are always wiggly, just best to never over tighten screws in fixtures since the molding of the housing are very soft. for repairs, I would use a larger version like the screw joe showed you, should work fine.
And how good do you think the ballast is mounted? It was kind of hard to mount it, I am not even sure how the brackets were made and what they are supposed to be on.
But why don't they just do what my cooper Multi-tap ballast did? Every wire on the OVZ ballast was attached to the ballast, but the input taps were just male slip on connectors popping out. They should do that with most ballasts with a wire attached to one of those male slip ons for the input.
But NOW the stupid REFLECTOR screw hole is stripped completely. I put a screw in it it won't tighten.
If the M-250 R2 didn't have a stupid one screw holding the complete reflector in I wouldn't have to tighten the screw so much to where it won't wiggle around and the reflector stays PUT.
Should I fix it with epoxy?
What is a self-tapping screw?
THIS IS A SELF-TAPPING SCREW:
THIS IS A STANDARD SCREW:
The self tapping screw has a ridge on the end that taps the hole. You can buy some at a hardware store. I love self-tapping screws. That's why i use PVC when i make homebrew lights. All you need is a screwdriver and self-tapping screws.
They're called self tapping machine screws, you can tell them apart from the ridges on the end that helps to cut the threads. My Powerlite used that type of screws since the holes aren't tapped after casting.