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Newest light firing up/full bright
Well this light is oh so much closer to being completely finished! Currently lit with a 175 watt MV lamp I got from home depot. Looks great! All I need is the connector for the inside and then I can put the slipfitter in!
Keywords: American_Streetlights

Newest light firing up/full bright

Well this light is oh so much closer to being completely finished! Currently lit with a 175 watt MV lamp I got from home depot. Looks great! All I need is the connector for the inside and then I can put the slipfitter in!

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Filename:100_1637.jpg
Album name:Lil'Cinnamon / My Lights
Keywords:American_Streetlights
Filesize:925 KiB
Date added:May 02, 2018
Dimensions:3000 x 2684 pixels
Displayed:123 times
URL:http://www.galleryoflights.org/mb/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=23094
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Comment 1 to 5 of 5
Page: 1

streetlight98   [May 02, 2018 at 11:14 PM]
Looks nice! I feel that this fixture would have made a great companion model for GE's current M-400A. I think this style glass goes good with the AE style medium glass lens the new M-400s use. Before the late 70s, this was the glass AE used on their Series 13 lights and I think the 13 and 25 looked much better when the glasses matched like that.
xmaslightguy   [May 03, 2018 at 01:56 AM]
Awesome!
Just gotta love MV streetlights Smile
LilCinnamon   [May 03, 2018 at 02:43 AM]
The ballast that was already in this was 100 watts HPS, but I have enough of those, I am glad I found 175 watt MH ballast for 5 dollars!

The glass does look nice, I am going to see if the ballast can actually fit in the fixture without it being on the door or not, but I dunno, I just need that wire harness plug thing that I can't seem to find anything like what I need..
streetlight98   [May 03, 2018 at 11:39 PM]
I used two of those orange fluorescent ballast disconnects for the two 320W PSMH M-400A2s I had (still have one; Darren has the other). They work fine, there's just two plugs to undo instead of one. If you find a 3-port disconnect you can share the neutral on the input and output of the ballast and you'll only have three wires. The "COM" wires are tied together inside the ballast anyway so you don't need both. It's just a convenience thing they do when they manufacture the ballasts. With my M-400A2s, I set up the two plugs so that I could unplug the two ballast plugs and plug the two fixture plug halves together to throw 120V onto the socket (so I could use mogul base incandescent or SBMV lamps in the fixture without rewiring it). Having the plugs opposite each other prevents the ballast output and input from being connected in reverse too.
joe_347V   [May 07, 2018 at 12:55 AM]
I used a Molex assembly in my B2255 when I converted it to a door mounted ballast. Would be handy to convert more of my lights though since I can make a ballast bypass plug to convert the light to incandescent.

Mike's suggestion of using a fluorescent disconnect is also good if you can't find a molex connector.

Comment 1 to 5 of 5
Page: 1