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Pretty accurate match This fixture is from the 90s sometime (i forget what date the ballast has on it). It's a Cooper Metalux fixture but it looks pretty vintage and is NOS. For $9 at the ReStore i couldn't pass it up. I also got these NOS Philips Econ-o-watt cool white lamps for a dollar each too, from 1997. I think the ballast is from the early-to-mid 90s meaning the fixture is probably from the mid 90s, making it very possible that it wouldn't be installed until around 1997 had it been used. So these lamps are a close enough match for it lol. Plus I have a thrid identical lamp too. i tested out the ballast, running the F34s for a good two hours and the ballast was only warm, not even hot. Some ballasts would be hot even with full wattage lamps after running that long. So it's a good ballast though. I'm thinking, since magnetic ballasts seem to have an inconsistant ballast factor, RS ballasts with a lower ballast factor will probably run cooler with F34s (and probably even cooler with 40W lamps). Keywords: Indoor_Fixtures

Pretty accurate match

This fixture is from the 90s sometime (i forget what date the ballast has on it). It's a Cooper Metalux fixture but it looks pretty vintage and is NOS. For $9 at the ReStore i couldn't pass it up. I also got these NOS Philips Econ-o-watt cool white lamps for a dollar each too, from 1997. I think the ballast is from the early-to-mid 90s meaning the fixture is probably from the mid 90s, making it very possible that it wouldn't be installed until around 1997 had it been used. So these lamps are a close enough match for it lol. Plus I have a thrid identical lamp too.

i tested out the ballast, running the F34s for a good two hours and the ballast was only warm, not even hot. Some ballasts would be hot even with full wattage lamps after running that long. So it's a good ballast though. I'm thinking, since magnetic ballasts seem to have an inconsistant ballast factor, RS ballasts with a lower ballast factor will probably run cooler with F34s (and probably even cooler with 40W lamps).

westernhillspics001_008.JPG westernhillspics001_005.JPG gol120213_005.JPG gol42813_017.JPG gol42813_004.JPG
File information
Filename:gol120213_005.JPG
Album name:Mike / My Collection
Keywords:Indoor_Fixtures
Filesize:131 KiB
Date added:Dec 02, 2013
Dimensions:1136 x 1650 pixels
Displayed:218 times
Color Space:sRGB
DateTime Original:2009:03:26 23:55:52
Exposure Bias:0 EV
Exposure Mode:0
Exposure Time:1/6 sec
FNumber:f/2.8
Flash:No Flash
Focal length:28.8125 mm
Light Source:Unknown: 0
Make:Vivicam
Model:V5024
URL:http://www.galleryoflights.org/mb/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=16669
Favorites:Add to Favorites

Comment 1 to 17 of 17
Page: 1

GEsoftwhite100watts   [Dec 03, 2013 at 01:14 AM]
Yeah on one of those .73 amp energy saver ballasts the 34w lamps will work optimally...well actually they do on .8 amp ballasts but I don't chance that and only use 40w lamps on those, especially since most of mine (Except...you guessed it...a Universal Therm-O-Matic which was in use for 30-odd years (Circa-1979-2013) and looks perfect) aren't in very good shape and are showing their age. But the 34 watters should work great on this and since you have some, might as well use them up here. I still can't pass up 34 watters myself...
Form109   [May 12, 2014 at 04:32 PM]
Reminds me of that 1960's shoplight I used to have....does look mighty vintage for a 90's fixture. how's the quality?
streetlight98   [May 12, 2014 at 06:43 PM]
Yeah it doesn't look nlike a 90s light lol. It's actually still made by Cooper! The quality's not bad. The plunger sockets are pretty crude though but that's leviton's fault not cooper's. The fixture's a little warped. Was like that when i got it. It's not as hefty as a 60s fixture but not bad.
GEsoftwhite100watts   [May 13, 2014 at 12:14 AM]
I know someone (Who gave me that Electripak yardlight and the PowerTwists who has some Lithonias similar to this only they have standard "tombstone" style sockets.
joe_347V   [May 13, 2014 at 04:56 AM]
I saw a NOS Lithonia version of this at Restore once. It was IS T8 so I didn't grab it. Razz

But yeah it looks more like a older 70s or s 60s light. Cool
Form109   [May 13, 2014 at 03:46 PM]
the plunger sockets are crude because they don't operate smoothly? cause the one's on mine were also a little unrefined lol. I love plunger sockets but I wont say they're more convenient than standard sockets (whatever they're called) Razz
streetlight98   [May 13, 2014 at 07:50 PM]
Yeah these sockets are a real b*tch. My Western Eletric fixtures have plunger sockets and they're really easy and you can relamp very easily. this one is hard because the plunger sockets don't line up right and the lamp refuses to go into the socket all the way. Rolling Eyes you can see the right lamp's pins because the lamp doesn't go in all the way.
A_lights   [May 14, 2014 at 03:41 AM]
The HO & slimline plungers seem to be smoother, even my T5 plunger sockets are good, these style turrets are my favorite
joe_347V   [May 14, 2014 at 03:51 AM]
Yeah my HO fixture had pretty smooth plungers tpp. maybe medium bipin plungers are harder to make smoother?
streetlight98   [May 14, 2014 at 11:05 AM]
I don't think it's that. These sockets are recessed into the endcaps whereas my Western Electric lights have tombstone sockets like an HO. The WE lights have sockets with litte lips to guide the lamp into the bi-pin holes but with these sockets in the Cooper it's all guesswork and it's a royal pain in the @$$. I'll take a pic of the "lips" in the WE sockets. The sockets in the Western Electric fixtures are REALLY well made and work great comapred to these socket which seem to be made very cheaply (and poorly).
Form109   [May 14, 2014 at 04:21 PM]
I think Plunger sockets are just susceptible to being hard to use overtime just because of the design. the plunger moves and there is a gap between the body of the socket & plunger where I suspect dust & grime can collect making the movement rough & crude. ive never disassembled one but im sure (that is if you can) that a good cleaning & maybe abit of lubrication will make the socket smooth again. just some thoughts.
streetlight98   [May 14, 2014 at 10:20 PM]
That's not the problem. It's the stationary side. The lamp pins won't go all the way into the stationary socket because the design is just so crude. The Western Electric fixtures are from the late 60s to early 70s and those sockets work like gems.
Form109   [May 14, 2014 at 11:19 PM]
well the stationary side was never an issue for me lol that's why naturally I thought of the part that moves...which is the plunger part. what makes the design crude excactly?
streetlight98   [May 15, 2014 at 12:58 AM]
the lamps don't go in right. if the socket doesn't function properly then it's got to be pretty crude. Laughing
GEsoftwhite100watts   [May 15, 2014 at 01:04 AM]
I dislike it when standard "tombstone" sockets break...couldn't they be made more robustly?
streetlight98   [May 15, 2014 at 01:54 AM]
I like fixtures that have plates on the ends that protect the sockets.
GEsoftwhite100watts   [May 15, 2014 at 01:56 AM]
Me too, especially if they cover the ENTIRE back of the socket and not just half of it...

Comment 1 to 17 of 17
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