That's a leveling bubble. Cobraheads can be ordered with leveling bubbles attached to them to make leveling the fixture easier.

Oh cool, thanks for clearing that up!

Hmm, I seen one of these lamps at Interstate 20 in Texas. I believe they are 250w, looks very nice.

Thank you. And welcome to GoL.
Your lucky to live in a area where they use these OVW's. It would be nice to see them here in Florida. Too bad Cooper Lighting only makes these for Texas

True, but although, it does look like a modernised Westinghouse OV-25.

What's the gray gasket on the socket?

The optical assembly in this luminaire is IP66 rated. The FCO glass is sealed to the door with some kind of silicon, it has a special type of reflector gasket, and has that gasket on the lamp socket.

Those door-mounted bubble levels are the dumbest things since you gotta close the door to see if the light is level. Unless the bolts are external, you need the door open to adjust the bolts, so it's purely a game of guess and check.

Yeah exactly. It probably takes longer to level a fixture with a door mounted leveling bubble and internal slipfitter bolts, than it would just placing a level on top of the fixture. I kind of want to remove it, but then again I want to leave the fixture original.

Not to mention, leveling a fixture isn't a difficult task. I've installed hundreds w/o a level but can guarantee they're easily all within the bubble if checked with a level.

Yeah it's pretty easy to eyeball it but even so, they don't care around here. the new lights are always installed at a slightly upward angle and usually tilted to one side. The 4-bolt fixtures were the worst for bad leveling since they'd only tighten one pair of bolts, so the fixtures either shot way up in the air like a flood light or they're droopy and look like they're gonna "fall off" the arm lol. Once in awhile they took the time to level the 4-bolt lights but not usually. And of course the 2-bolt rocker fitters on the 70s GEs were always installed with the fixture tilted way up lol. Some of the 60s M-250As were properly leveled though, as were some of the 70s M-250R1s. By the early 80s though they just stopped giving a hoot lol.

What bothers me is that some of the G.E. Evolve's LCEC has installed here are not level. There is one that they just installed a couple weeks ago on my street that is tilted to one side, and it's a mega glarebomb when your driving one way down the street. The other way you can't even tell there's a light there other than the light on the ground. On the street parallel to mine, the poles are set WAYYYY back from the street. I'm guessing 30+ feet. They installed a Evolve on that street recently. Now you would think they would tilt the fixture up to throw light on the street. Nope. Instead the fixture lights up the grass.

I've always find it odd that some lights have integral door levels, like Mike said, it's a bit of PITA to use and you pretty much only need to use it once. Most of the fixtures here are fairly level, even the recently installed LED fixtures.

RIDOT gets the fixtures pretty level. Some fixtures that are mounted on low poles or set back a little from the road are angled upward but it works well in that case. RIDOT is usually level +/- one leveling step.

Well, I was originally going to get one of these at FM 2920, during the change out to LED, but I lost my chance. I think theres eight of these fixtures left at FM 2920, at intersections. Which I probably think that they have a multitap ballast, since the traffic lighting signals need 120v in order to work. So I might have another chance, before they change it out to LED.

But I might use it when I get one, for my backyard. But since they're 250w HPS its an overkill for the backyard, so I might convert it to 150w HPS for backyard use. But I might keep the original ballast for testing 250w HPS lamps. And heck, if I'm lucky I might get a trussarm, with the brackets. That would look perfect for the fixture.

They might use the 480V taps on freeways and the 240V taps for traffic light street lights. The signal cabinet might use 120V but it's still got 240V coming from the power company. The second hot leg is probably for the street lights.

They might use the 480V taps on freeways and the 240V taps for traffic light street lights. The signal cabinet might use 120V but it's still got 240V coming from the power company. The second hot leg is probably for the street lights.

Well funkybulb on LG, found an OVW that has a multitap ballast, which probably came from an intersection. Which is rare though.

Although, you might be right @streetlight98, if they are using the two phases (with no neutral) for the intersection lighting, I have a dryer plug to use it.

Mine is a 240/480, I had to re-wire the ballast a little bit and connect the dryer cord to light mine up, and I cut off the little cover over the ballast.

I want to keep mine original so I never did want to replace the ballast. I wonder if they still have that ebay auction still up, that's where I got mine, over a year ago, and went down to Dallas and picked it up locally. (I was just in Dallas though two weekends ago)

Nope, I looked and its gone.