There is a cut short wire on the bottom left-hand corner of the ballast and it's black.

I got the photo,The 2 wires that are togeter are 120v Black and the short one goes to the lamp. the cap. with no wire on it goes ot the lamp. the N and red go together and are 120v N

If it's an actual "regulator" ballast, I would in fact think the ballast is wired another way. You can see 4 actual coils on the core. One has a black and a white wire. The other has a black and a red one. Then there's the two bottom ones which seem to be hooked together with a jumper, right? Those should be connected to the capacitor.

Then the white wire goes to neutral logically. The corresponding black wire on the same coil should go to 120V. What remains is your lamp secondary. I'd connect the red wire to the central contact and the black to the screw if I were you (but I guess it'd be OK the other way).

Keep in mind the regulator ballast is a little special, the capacitor has its own secondary, and so does the lamp. So you have your line (120V), the cap and the lamp, all three electrically isolated from the others. If you have a multimeter or a continuity tester, make sure you have three isolated coils, if so that's a regulator ballast for sure. Personally I'm pretty sure it is one, and that's a nice catch! These have the advantage of providing the best lamp regulation. They can take pretty strong voltage drops without going out. So you can run yours on the AC or vacuum circuit and it's less likely to go out even if the device draws a large current peak at startup!

I got the photo of when it was in my old street light working.

@ Vince; yes it has "175W REGULATOR - GENERAL ELECTRIC - HENDERSONVILLE, NC" and something about it not to be resold or something like that... So the capacitor is the only thing the two lower coils are hooked to? BTW Vince, the two wires closest to the white are actually brown and black. so which one is the 120V and which is for the lamp? Also, so there is no nuetral to the lamp, just the red and the black (or brown)?

Also i should add the capacitor has a blue lead on one side and a snipped short WHITE lead on the other while the two lower ballast coils have a blue and a BLACK lead.

@ Bryan; sure I'd love to see the photo!

Nice! You should install it on your extra Powr/Door so you can run both 100w and 175w lamps in your M-250A. Not sure how it's wired though. :/

traffic light1: Oh, I didn't know it was yours before. I guess you know better than me how it's wired xD. In that case it sure is a weird way to make a ballast, especially with the wire colour coding which is quite inconsistent! I do know that GE used those O shaped cores for quite a while. instead of the usual E-I core. That's why there's a set of 4 coils instead of two.

It's also weird they marked that CWI ballast as a regulator ballast, since those are a totally different type.

@ Joe; i can't because the plugs for the powr/door are permanetly attatched to the wires (wires soldered to pins, pins locked into the plastic of the plug)

@ Vince; yeah he gave it to me along with a 400W Westinghouse HPS ballast (i need help wiring that too) So does Bryan's explanation add up to how a CWI ballast is wired? I just don't want to miswire the ballast and destroy it or the lamp or anything else.