Here is a 1985 M-250 R1 FCO, pretty dirty, and wet since it was sitting outside in the snow.
240 volts.. So I can't light it up on a NORMAL outlet. xD I could try Dryer. I am not gonna take the original ballast out, I want to keep this one original. This wasn't made to have a photocell, but the plastic dome cover was missing. I need to either get a new cover, or get a PC socket. xD
N°1 - You can get a 240V photocontrol and wire it on the same voltage used for the ballast + lamp, black wire going to one live terminal (L1), red wire going to ballast, and white wire going to the other live terminal (L2).
N°2 - You could also use a 120V photocontrol. You would then need a 120/240V supply to the fixture. Fortunately any standard dryer outlet has both. In that case the black wire goes to L1, red wires goes to the ballast, and white wire goes to neutral (N). The wire coming from the socket shell goes to L2 as usual.
I can make a diagram if it isn't totally clear LOL.
Michael: Oh it sure is! Older dryers and cooking ranges use a 3-prong cord, with the neutral and ground sharing a single prong as Joe mentioned. Today the code requires the neutral and ground to be electrically separated all the way up to the main panel, so these 3-prong receptacles aren't compliant anymore.
As of the fixture, the ground problem could be solved by connecting a jumper between the ground screw of the fixture and the neutral terminal. There's no real hazard with this since the neutral is already grounded in the main panel, so it won't short anything. While it isn't "compliant", the fixture will still be safe to use.
Ian: The simplest solution would be to get a dryer 4-prong cord and connect your fixture in the dryer outlet if it is easily accessible. Sometimes the oulet is installed just above the dryer instead of a couple of inches from the floor.
Ian, I would recommend more than 500 watt if you will plan to use any 400 watt fixtures
I blew out my 50 watt inverter from a 35 watt LPS fixture it uses more power to START it up than a normal operating and it burnt up from the start up.... so 500 watt won't be enough....those things are pretty sensitive so a little surge can break those inverters....but you can try the dryer first...
I did have the exact inverter you showed me too...but it was 100 watt which was only for my 18 and 35 watt ones...which it did fine although I blew a fuse a few times LOL........
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N°1 - You can get a 240V photocontrol and wire it on the same voltage used for the ballast + lamp, black wire going to one live terminal (L1), red wire going to ballast, and white wire going to the other live terminal (L2).
N°2 - You could also use a 120V photocontrol. You would then need a 120/240V supply to the fixture. Fortunately any standard dryer outlet has both. In that case the black wire goes to L1, red wires goes to the ballast, and white wire goes to neutral (N). The wire coming from the socket shell goes to L2 as usual.
I can make a diagram if it isn't totally clear LOL.
As of the fixture, the ground problem could be solved by connecting a jumper between the ground screw of the fixture and the neutral terminal. There's no real hazard with this since the neutral is already grounded in the main panel, so it won't short anything. While it isn't "compliant", the fixture will still be safe to use.
Ian: The simplest solution would be to get a dryer 4-prong cord and connect your fixture in the dryer outlet if it is easily accessible. Sometimes the oulet is installed just above the dryer instead of a couple of inches from the floor.
I blew out my 50 watt inverter from a 35 watt LPS fixture
I did have the exact inverter you showed me too...but it was 100 watt which was only for my 18 and 35 watt ones...which it did fine although I blew a fuse a few times LOL........
Listen to Vince.....for now...
So... How do I wire this dryer cord? Which do I put where?