The latch is similar...but smaller on the OVZ....in fact the latch is pretty much the same on the OV-15 Tudor and L-150! The OV-15 always had bigger latch while the Tudor and the "L-150" had smaller latch....
The reflectors of course...
The design and shape of the terminal bus but OVZ is in plastic...
A CODE VIOLATION: the OVZ isn't grounded you HPS LOVER!
Okay weirdosss. And it isn't grounded because I don't have a cord for it yet. o3o. And what is with the HPS lover thing? I dont love any light source. Mercury vapor is still the best light source on my opinion. I just don't mind HPS
Looks like the slipfitter bolts are similar. Although this OV15 is a mercury and doesnt require an ignitor, my OV15 Tudor HPS fixture from 1981 has the same ignitor design as this one.
Not really, Beginning with the second generation OV15 and 3rd generation OV25 and OV50, Westinghouse began using 1/2" threaded rod and nuts in place of the cap screws they previously used. When Westinghouse redesigned the OV15 and 25, they switched to a 3/8" threaded rod.
My OVZ has two slipfitter bolt/screws like all my other lights, and is different than my OV-15, the OV-15 has what he explained, with a threaded rod extending from the fixture and just a simple nut that screws on the built-in rods. The OVZ though has just holes in the housing and you put two screws with the big bolts in there like the M-400 R2 to R3 and M-250 R2 and R3 or 115 or 125. Those kind of bolts.
I think it's cause a threaded rod and nut will accept a larger number of arm diameters securely than bolts since if bolts were used the bolts would not be fully in the cast threads if the arm is thick but with threaded rods and nuts, the threaded rod will be fully inserted in the cast threads (and be secure) regardless of the arm width.
If you really want to use bolts you'll have to put them on the outside like some GEs and Powerlites for a secure fit.
Ahh i see. The downside with the threaded rods though is that the rods and nuts will rust, especially with the L-150/L-250 with their exposed slipfitter. And you can't take the rods out to replace them. And if they rust badly enough, you might not even be able to loosen the nuts to take the light off the mast arm! I've noticed here a lot of L-150s and L-250s (well, i've only seen them along washington street in attleboro) that get replaced usually have the mast arm replaced too, probably for that reason. I think the only way to replace threaded rods is to cut them right where they go into the housing and then redrill a hole where they are and then stick new rods in. BTW, how do you screw the threaded rods in tight enough so that they won't screw back out?
Heh, the bolts sometimes get rusty too but I guess you should use stainless steel bolts, threaded rods, and nuts if you're afraid of rust and stuck nuts.
I think the threaded rods have some thread lock glue (Loctite) in the cast threads where it screws into the housing so they're so hard to remove. Removing the a stuck rod is quite hard, you can probably drill them out if you have time and a drill press and then stick one of these inserts into the hole so a new rod can screw in. Another option is a bolt extractor but I've had mixed results with those. Electric discharge machining (EDM) would probably also work but it costs a pretty penny.
Login
The reflectors of course...
The design and shape of the terminal bus but OVZ is in plastic...
A CODE VIOLATION: the OVZ isn't grounded you HPS LOVER!
If you really want to use bolts you'll have to put them on the outside like some GEs and Powerlites for a secure fit.
I think the threaded rods have some thread lock glue (Loctite) in the cast threads where it screws into the housing so they're so hard to remove. Removing the a stuck rod is quite hard, you can probably drill them out if you have time and a drill press and then stick one of these inserts into the hole so a new rod can screw in. Another option is a bolt extractor but I've had mixed results with those. Electric discharge machining (EDM) would probably also work but it costs a pretty penny.