Gallery of Lights
Unrelated Stuff => Forum Games => Topic started by: GEsoftwhite100watts on March 22, 2012, 12:23:27 AM
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Hi all,
Here's how this one will work:
Poster 1 describes a light or bulb, and the next person has to guess the name. The next person also posts hints for the next thing.
Example:
Buzzes, bright, non dark sky friendly, soon to be banned...
POSTER 2:
answer : MV
ORANGE, CAUSES SKYGLOW...
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HPS. (BTW, MV gives off very little light pollution!)
White, may explode...
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MH
Greenish light with an incredibly long life, but blamed for problems it is not really responsible for.
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Mercury Vapor :)
Yellow, bright, no color rendering
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HPS
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came after the ITT model 13 and before the AEL 115
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HPS
Wrong: it is actually LPS (HPS actually has a minor color rendering)
AEL 113 ???
Disgusting, cheap, and somehow "durable"...
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Yes, 113
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DuraStar
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This GE light was later renamed the M-250A2 after its wattage capacity was increased.
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M-250/M-250A ???
(don't know too much about street lights)
Lightweight, small, not very efficient (but claimed to be)...
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The GE M-150A. You can see what one looked like below
(http://www.galleryoflights.org/mb/gallery/albums/userpics/normal_008~8.JPG)
LED streetlights.
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A cobrahead?
Makes people look like zombies
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clear mercury vapor lamps
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Later became the Cooper OVZ
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Absolutely no idea
Killed Westinghouse
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Philips
______________________
Gull
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Ceramethane Gullvapor lamps?
Is prone to catching fire at EOL
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CFLs
Zaps tubes using a high voltage when starting
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Electronic instant-start ballast (or a magnetic slimline ballast?)
Blinks at at startup, and the stock lamps are usually (in my opinion horrible) halophosphate warm white but can be replaced with a cool white lamp
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undercabinent preheat fixtures
A fixture that takes a half circle fluorescent lamp is ------__________
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Actually pre-heat circline adapters
Westy "circlarc" fixtures?
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Yep
T17 bulb with dents
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Powr-Groove
GE roadway lighting fixture with a door mounted quick release ballast.
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powr/bracket or powr/door
Flickers dimly in cold environments
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That would be those awful 60W Alto slimline lamps or 34W lamps
light with 3 brightnesses
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3 way lamp
Lights dim greenish when well-used
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Mercury lamp with blackened arc-tube
The light that starts like Neon red and makes everything look black and yellow with zero color rendering
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Low Pressure Sodium
Causes noticeable buzz in a whole room full of them...
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Magentic rapid start fluorescent ballasts (or any magnetic ballast for that matter)
Known as Lucalox by GE.
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High Pressure Sodium
Sylvania calls this lamp the "MetalArc"
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Probe start metal halide.
Sylvania calls this lamp MetalArc Pro-Tech
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NOT SURE... but let me guess CMH or PSMH
Cool white ones are slightly yellowish
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Yeah Pulse start. CMH is Metalarc Powerball for Sylvania.
T12 Fluorescent lamps.
Introduced by Westinghouse in 1957 as the first "cobrahead" light ever on the market. They were used on davit poles when I-95 was constructed in RI in 1957 as well, though there are now 250W HPS M-250R2s on these poles, though the original poles from 1957 are still there, given they weren't hit.
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Westinghouse OV-25 IB "Silverliner" aka Flat Bottom :P
Ballasts and starters for this type of lamp haven't been made for a couple decades but replacement lamps are still made but by only one company.
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I meant 34w energy saver florescent tubes
I'm guessing F90T17?
Used to light stores a lot and sometimes even homewowners use these 8 foot fixtures but now the're becoming less common because T8 is taking over.
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Yep F90T17, I guess F96T12?
Most common fluorescent lamp before the 1990s.
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F40T12
Underdrives lamps
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Low power factor ballast
Company bought out by Philips
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Advance Transformer Co.
BTW, i think F90T17 starters are still made, though they're very hard to find. I've seen a site online that sells them...
Lamps typically rectify at EOL with this type of fluorescent ballast...
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Either slimlines or NPF shoplights
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Nope i was referring to preheat chokes. With rapid start, the circut opens up with a rectifying lamp to save the ballast from overheating and spilling tar, etc. I'm not sure about F40T12 preheaters or potted F20T12 ballasts, but the bare chokes don't have any mechanism to open the circut.
Is thic light is working properly, it SHOULD cycle. You can find them all over the city. :)
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high pressure sodium
Start dim in the middle in freezing temperatures
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Alto or other low mercury fluorescent lamps.
Lasts a long time but can only be used base down or sideways.
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3 way bulbs?
You should always remove bad tubes from these lights if you can to save the ballast and insane flashing/strobing/flickering/buzzing
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high pressure sodium
Start dim in the middle in freezing temperatures
No, a traffic light. :P HPS lamps should not cycle if they work properly. If it's cycling, it's malfunctioning.
. . .
preheat fluorescent.
. . .
This style ballast provides the "cleanest" energy (meaning keeps voltag consistant, therefore ideal for areas with inconsistant line voltage) to the lamp but suffers from high ballast losses in return.
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Nope i was referring to preheat chokes. With rapid start, the circuit opens up with a rectifying lamp to save the ballast from overheating and spilling tar, etc. I'm not sure about F40T12 preheaters or potted F20T12 ballasts, but the bare chokes don't have any mechanism to open the circuit.
that would be the capacitor blocking the DC current from "back-feeding" though the ballast coils
slimline ballasts have a problem when lamp fails on the Lag side, the capacitor is not present there and a rectifying lamp will cause DC current to backflow through the ballast and will overheat but thermal protection usually saves it a few times until it frys itself after a few EOL lamps doing this ...lead side lamp looses vacuum quick and no damage done there
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Guessing
CWA ballast
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Mercury starved lamps are almost usually this brand
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Philips
Starts with pink/purple flashes then shifts to a dim blue green then warms up to full brightness in about 5-7 minutes.
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Sounds like a coated or clear MV seen clear ones do the flashing pink near the electrodes
A light that is pure white and blinks rapidly. .some are adjustable
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@ aaron, close, CWI was the ballast.
Xenon Strobe light?
ugly color. Is the easiest for astronomers to filter out.
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correct!!!
LPS
Has a orange glow and used in older surge protectors, some flicker a lot
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neon indicator glow lamps
Starts out dim pink, then gradually changes to purplish-white-green
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/DX phosphored mercury vapour.
Lampholder size in between medium and mogul.
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Never heard of such a thing...
Bulb in at a 45 degree angle and buzzes.
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Some type of MV yardlight
Long lamp that can kill ballast when it fails. .the fixture is 2 lamp
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75w F96T12 slimline
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Yep!
Purple colored fluorescent lamp
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Grow-Lux
Are preheat but sometimes came with rapid start lamps which worked fine regardless
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shoplites?
This lamp is always 5ft long reguardless of wattage. Not a single person in the lighting community has layed eyes on a 100W version of this lamp.
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No, circline adapters
I have absolutely no idea to be totally honest...
Brand that almost always uses cathode guards on their florescent tubes
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This lamp is always 5ft long reguardless of wattage. Not a single person in the lighting community has layed eyes on a 100W version of this lamp.
I'm guessing it's the elusive F100T17 (http://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-56877) lamp. I think someone on LG posted a picture of what might be one though.
Fun facts about T17s, the five foot versions came in four wattages, 40w instant start, and 85, 90, and 100w preheat start
A three foot version (http://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-46244) was also made but was discontinued in the early 40s so they are VERY rare, I only know of the one posted on LG.
Brand that almost always uses cathode guards on their florescent tubes
Philips :P
Now speaking of rare fluorescents would someone guess what this is:
(http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss50/joseph_125ON/Gallery%20of%20Lights/Tube2.jpg)
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No idea...
One key component stabilizes lamp current and THE longest lasting lighting situation I am aware of is a 175w Westy LifeGuard running base up one one of these ballasts-easily 300,000 hours!
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It's a Type RF fluorescent VERY RARE and I don't think anyone on here or LG has one :o
(http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss50/joseph_125ON/Gallery%20of%20Lights/Tube1.jpg)
It's around 5' long and uses 85w, it was self rectifying and had one end with two filaments, I'm not sure when were they last used though.
I'm guessing ballast?
Commonly used in cold areas, rapid start only.
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I meant CWA ballasts...
HO florescents...
Sometimes isn't the remost reliable thing when it comes to starting lamps and the cathodes just glow dimly unless you flick the switch on and off multiple times or touch the tube...
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Magnetic rapid start ballast
Developed in the mid 1960s, replaced the predominant (at the time) HID light source for streetlighting.
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MH or HPS...
Has a wide, THICK metal reflector and takes F40T12 lamps. (Hint: I'm getting one)
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Vintage industrial shoplite.
they're blue but use yellow phosphors to render as either soft, warm, or cool white.
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I'd guess either florescent, MV, or LED...
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HPS, MH streetlights never really took off here.
I'm guessing those Philips LED lamps, most use a blue LED covered with a yellow phosphor.
Traditional type of traffic light, became less common and was largely replaced with LED in the mid 2000s.
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incandescent traffic signal lamps
Runs F40T12s at full power and tends to leak tar if used with 34w lamps for extended periods
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40w Preheat ballasts
single coil inductive device used to regular current to a mercury-argon gas discharge lamp
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I meant full power ballasts...but you're still right!
I'm guessing preheat choke or HX-NPF mercury vapor ballast...
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No one has posted recently so...
Is famous for their electric shavers and made some really cool lamps of all types, but I especially like their F40CW florescent lamps.
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Phillips............
A company that used to be the best US manufacturer, but now a badge relegated to cheap and low quality lamps and appliances made all over the world for the lowest cost.
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Technically you're right but I was thinking Norelco which was the American equivalent of Philips before they bought out Westinghouse...Norelco stands for something like NOrth american Philips lighting and ELectrical COrporation...
I'm guessing Sunbean or GE?
The dark sky people really don't like these lights...
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MV or LPS
First developed in 1960's.
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MV yardblasters
Metal halide? Rapid start ballast? HPS?
No longer makes 34 watt "energy saver" florescent tubes...
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It was the single-crystal LED's (primitive type).
Philips?
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Yup!
Was the predecessor to Philips here in the US in the 70s and is famous for their electric shavers and also made great lighting products, and I have a F40CW made by them...
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Noreleco!
Made an "incadecent fluorescent lamp"
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You bet it's Norelco! They made some really cool stuff back in the day!
Sylvania/GTE I'm guessing
Has a little shunt in the base of the bulbs so when they burn out it will theorectically keep the other bulbs lit...
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Okay let me make this popular again...
Is everyone's favorite size and shape of MV lamp...
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Older post of yours: those mini xmas lights (which i find troubling)
BT MV cleartop
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Fixture with 6 lamps...is high up
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BT25...but BT28s are cool too-I've wanted a cleartop 175w Westy Lifeguard for awhile now!
Chandelier? Gas station florescent parking lot light?
Will leave bad tubes rectifying peacefully but annoyingly practically forever if lamps aren't changed
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Gotta make this popular again so...
Has tubes in a sideways "spiral" and are quite large compared to modern spiral CFLs
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You.were close...i was thinking high bay fluorescent fixtures
One or 2 lamp LPF balast
Would guess.an older CFL like Phillips marathon triple tube?
-- --- ----
Heats lamp cathodes when starting and running
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Nah those old MaxLite or Feit ones...although some of the older IKEA ones could also fall into that catergory...
Rapid start or trigger start ballast?
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Haven't played this in awhile so...
Kills lamps quick(er) with frequent switching cycles...
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electronic instant start
the only type of HID ballast that suffers with dead or missing lamps.
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CWA?
Manufacture of this once-common florescent tube was banned in 1994...
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Halophosphate cool white(i think it was banned in 1995, but not sure if it was still made that year or not)
Bulb that glows bright green when held under BLB
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GE Reveal CFL?
Uses 96 watts total (2X40w for the lamps and 16w ballast losses)
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yes right on!(or the linear version)
full power .80 Amp ballast!
a certain brand ballast that powers many different lamp types and is electronic
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I'm hazarding a guess it's a Motorola/Sylvania ballast?
Is much larger and heavier duty than the lightweight F32T8 electronic IS ones sold now at home improvement centers and even have .8 amp HPF ballasts, not LPF ones that run 40w lamps at 25w
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How 'bout this?
Has cathode guards and is technically a Philips lamp. Brand name is italicized on the etch.
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Norelco (note i spelled it right this time lol)
Is used by me when i relamp vintage fixtures using F40T12s even though i happen to use GE EcoLuxes with my own fixtures. I plan to buy these to swap out the lamps in the F40s at my great aunts the next time i'm over.
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I know two Norelco tubes that are much happier now! :lol:
Sylvania /CWP?
Has nice, long leads and "Wonderfully Nasty Stuff" inside...
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Yep Sylvania CWP. If the Hg starved behavior becomes a frequent issue I think I'll be switching over the GE, but the CWP lamps are $2.99 for a pair versus $6.98 for GE EcoLux F40CW lamps. If I'm not getting payed back for the lamps I don't want to spend over double the price for a lamp that I won't be using. and I can't buy in bulk since I can't spend large quantities of money at once since I'm on the "high school budget" (i'm sure you know where i'm coming from Andy) so I have to buy the exact amount of lamps that i need at the time i need them. I currently have one GE 3500K lamp, two GE f40CW lamps, and two Sylvania CWP lamps (removed from the RS shop lite) that will be used at my great aunt's if i can swap out a pair of GE 35W F40CW lamps, and Sylvania grow lamp, and i THINK two blackenders in a preheater in the garage that is wall mounted with two F40T12s mounted end to end in an 8ft fixture with a reflector.
As long as the odd CWP behavior doesn't affect the ballasts at all i'll keep using them.
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Cool...
Which florescent manufacturer has had endcaps besides the normal silver ones?
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i think they all have. :P GE used to have brass end caps, westie (i think) never had the aluminum endcaps, never stopping the use of the bakelite ones, not sure on Sylvania, and philips sill used aluminum endcaps but some are green if that's what you meant.
the government seems to have a beef with these being used except with low ballast factor ballasts.
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F40T12s?
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yep.
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Sylvania actually had blackenders similar to Westy as did GE. Vince has a example of a blackender GE and I have some old blackender Sylvanias lying around.
Some older Philips lamps from the 80s and early 90s had black endcaps too. They were from the old Westy design though...
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There's also such a thing as Westies with aluminum endcaps from that 80s Philips-takeover era.
Which somewhat-famous lamp has a color temperature similar to cool white florescent and takes about four minutes to warm up/restrike and Westinghouse (and later Philips) made some of THE BEST and Longest-lasting of these and many are still in use decades later and are a collector's item?
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that would be a lifeguard MV lamp!
A lamp that is 85W and runs on DC current
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direct current current? :P ;D
A SOX lamp?
this lamp seems to be the universal replacement for both 8 and 4 foot T12s.
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this is what i meant (http://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-77212url)
F32T8 lamp ?
a lamp that works awfully in cold weather
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34 watt "energy saver" F40T12 or 60w F96T12?
Old shopping malls had these in recessed cans everywhere.
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Gives some people horrible migrane headaches and many people get annoyed by their constant buzzing...
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high/low bays? I get migranes but the buzz of light fixtures has never bothered me. I love the sound of it. IMO It's strange seeing a totally silent fluorescent or HID fixture, either with an electronic ballast or a self-ballasted lamp, though CFLs have a slight buzz to them, though it's a different pitch than a magnetic ballast.
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Nah linear florescents, although you're right!
Sometimes I hear CFLs buzzing...mainly on modified-sine-wave inverter electricity.
Doesn't like "Energy Saver" lamps and tends to leak tar if used with them...
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full-power ballasts! (namely preheat tulamp ballasts)
has the lumnen equivalent of a 400W merc. (lookign for wattage and lamp type)
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250w PSMH? Not sure...
Or 40w incandescent if it's really dimmed out LOL...
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250w preobe start MH. I was surprised that the two had similar lumen ratings.
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Well, I know 400w probe-start metal halide is INSANELY bright! Seen my "Bright Space Heater" pic?
This brand of full-power RS ballast seems to handle 34w lamps okay...
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oh yeah i thought something was wrong with my M-400 when the 400W metalarc finally lit up in it. it was warming up gradually, a tad brighter than a merc then it all of a sudden began brightning up really fast!
Univeral Therm-O-Matic RS ballasts! I bet the preheaters still wouldn't like 34 or 35W lamps though. i've never put a 34W lamp in my preheat fixture and i don't plan to.
This thing needs to have a button itself pushed after changing an EOL lamp in order so close the lamp's circut.
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Manual-reset starter!
High CRI 5000K lamp from GE
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Spec 50? Chroma 50?
cycle at EOL and have quartz arc tubes.
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Yep GE C50
HPS?
NEVER EVER use 34w lamps on this ballast...
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HPF preheat ballast.
(NEVER EVER use 34W lamps PERIOD! :P ;D )
and nope, HPs has a ceramic arc tube. Do you still want to guess? there's one more HID that cycles though the on and off cycles are longer than HPS, which can make a cycle in under a minute.
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PSMH?
Is preheat and came with halophosphate warm white tubes which are often replaced with cool white ones
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Yep, PSMH. CMH lamps cycle too and have ceramic arc tubes but technically they're PSMH lamps too.
LOA circline adapters? if so, mine is IS lol.
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Well any circline adapter then...any brand, magnetic or electronic. But I usually see STAR/LOA and TCP/GE "CircLite 75" adapters myself and on LG/GOL.
Can PSMH and CMH run on the same ballast?
These are sorta 60hz flicker happy it seems and have a pinkish light that some use as a substitute for warm white and vice-versa.
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These have much more character than their newer eliptical-shaped counterparts and also have been known to last WAY longer than their rated 24,000 hour lifetime!
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These have been known to cause fires and are banned in some university residence halls...
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CFLs. I didn't know some places banned them though...
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No, those 300w quartz halogen torchiere lamps. I have a GU24 CFL one though...I would happily trade it for a vintage circline/incandescent one any day though!
These have a "bang!" type sound when switched on and always seem to buzz somewhat...
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no clue. none of my lights go BANG except a MH at EOL but that's more of a POP/BOOM followed by the sound of shattered glass lol.
Goes "ping ping ping" at start up and these are ALWAYS blink happy.
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8' slimline fixtures with their big magnetic ballasts...
F40 preheaters?
BTW in the movie "World War Z" there are a bunch of what appear to be F40 preheaters in the hallway of an apartment building in one scene that are flashing on and off, probably due to undervoltage/brownouts as the city is taken over by zombies...
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nope mine was PL fluorescent lamps. I tend to find F40T12 lamps rather unblink-happy. Half the time they instant start or just come on without blinking. :( F20T12 lamps are much more blink happy. T17s aren't too blink happy either. When you turn them on, nothing happens for bout five seconds then the lamp ends glow for 2-3 seconds then the lamp jsut flashes on.
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These have aluminum endcaps and were made on the machinery of the company that bought them out.
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These have aluminum endcaps and were made on the machinery of the company that bought them out.
GEsoftwhite100watts
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WRONG! It's those Westy lamps made right after the Philips takeover on the Philips/Norelco machinery
This fluorescent lamp was the most common until 1995 when EPACT banned it's manufacture.
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This rapid start ballast seems to be the most reliable and despite being full-power handles 34w lamps okay...
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Universal Therm-O-Matic...
The smallest length bi-pin T12 lamp available.
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I figured that would be easy since we both have those ballasts!
F14T12?
This brand of early spiral CFL which came from Home Depot was made by TCP and seemed to last a very long time but tended to get pretty hot and often had a firey, stinky EOL.
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These are supposedly THE WORST of the T12 energy saver lamps, worse than the 34w 4' ones...
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The ballasts the above lamps are powered by make a loud THUMP! sound when turned on and even when warmed up always seem to buzz/hum some...
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LOA shoplites! My only single lamp 4ft fluorescent fixture and buzzes really loudly but works great and looks even better!
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Nope, slimlines! LOA type ballasts make a "Bzzt" sound when turned on.
The WWII era preheater-cum-blacklight-fixture? Yeah that's a pretty cool light! Is it currently your preferred F40 lamp tester? I thought it was pretty quiet...what is it's buzz like? a HUMMM? A Bzzzzz? an annoying high-pitched izzzzzzzzzz? I usually test new F40/F34 finds in a Lithiona shoplight with one of those LOA-type ballasts.
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Yep the WWII preheater. :D yeah i use it to test F40 tubes since it's a single lamp unit, isn't installed, and since it's preheat it tests the filaments in the lamp too. If a lamp doesn't work on preheat, i test it on RS.
No this thing is pretty loud sometimes but other times just loud enough so that it's easily noticiable. any other fluorescent of mine it needs to be completely quiet to hear them and then even sometimes you can't. When it first starts up it's loud until the starter starts the lamp. It's really a unique sound that you just have to hear in person to understand. It's like a BWU-BWU-BW-annnnnnnnnng sound when it's starting up (capital letters when the starter is trying to start the lamp and lowercase annnnnnnnnng when the ballast running normally.
It sounds the most like this ballast. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GrO9K0JsTE8). It's a little higher pitched than that but that's bascially what it sounds like.
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That buzz is one I could live with...
These were made well into the early 2000s and I think can still be found at ACE and True Value stores...
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No idea... ES RS ballasts? magnetic LOA shoplites?
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GE FLB/17 capsule/bullet shape preheat CFLs! You are right though...does anybody know if those magnetic LOA shoplights are still made?
These residential-grade wraparounds were available at places like Home Depot and other home centers and SERIOUSLY underdrive lamps and are VERY cold-natured!
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Ahh. And nope, the new LOA shoplites are electronic. Even worse quality than the choke-ballasted ones i think. At least the older ones were a simple design so nothing could really go wrong and if it did, it could be replaced. Now it's all on a circuit board and is totally worthless if one of those weld spots comes loose...
My heaviest street light currently in the collection:
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M-250R1?
The streetlight I might get someday...
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Nope my M-400. It weighs about 40 pounds. O_O
The M-400A (which according to my 1977 catalog weighs about 50 pounds. :o
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Yep...
These came with Westy Lifeguard lamps at one point...
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Those Regent yardlight things... Can't remember the name lol.
The most common T12 fluorescent lamp and probably used to be the most common fluorescent lamp at all from the 60s to the 90s.
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Are you thinking of the Regent "SuperLite"? Because if so, you're right.
F40CW!!!
These came in a transparent plastic can instead of the normal metal or white plastic ones.
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These have 90CRI and a nice blusish light...
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Design 50 Sylvania lamps. MAYBE I'll cough up the cash and stop being a cheap grump just to see what these things are all about lol :P
used to be common in gymnasiums and used mainly metal halide lamps when HIDs were common indoors and were very buzzy.
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I was thinking high-CRI 5000K daylight lamps in general...including GE Chroma 50 and Philips Colortone 50 as well.
Highbays?
These are good for running spent T12s
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ahh so they all have 90 CRI? I'm guessing they'll be the last T12s to go then because I'm sure they're probably going to raise the CRI requirement again someday. :8)
yep highbays.
IS T8 ballasts
this light of mine used to be in the backyard but today i took it down and installed the Cooper OVC outside instead. This light in question is now mounted on the pole in my room and I took down the M-250R1.
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The M-250A? I admittedly don't follow your streetlight activity as much...
This light of mine is on it's second lamp but the original hadn't failed and is missing it's diffuser/refractor.
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yep the M-250A.
hmm I don't know. Is it one of your troffers?
This lamp is flashing and one end is not glowing reddish. i think it's getting ready to go...
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A 1993 Electripak 175w MV yardblaster.
That Alto!
We both use these CFLs.
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Ahh the yardblaster.
GE Helicals? That's all I use except for one MaxLite A19 lamp that replaced a failed Helical. Since we use the light frequently for long periods of time we kept it CFL.
This is the country of origin for the cool white lamp in my closet light. It's the last original F20T12 to the house.
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Yep. Canada?
This lamp burned my hand when I removed it after it cooked and lost vacuum.
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yep.
The Chroma50 lamp? BTW i found out GE calls them "sunshine" lamps.
the shortest bi-pin T12 fluorescent lamp on the market today:
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Nah another spent Mainlighter lamp.
Yeah I realized I forgot to mention that...are you going to get some Sunshine F40s then? I would...again a little dim but really nice color! I think they've changed the name once again to "Closet&Laundry" though.
So nowadays it's GE "Sunshine", Sylvania "Daylight Full Spectrum" and Philips "C50 Supreme" if you want high-CRI 5000K lamps.
F14T12?
There are really cheap Chinese generic versions of this with a very cold light output and if they're AC, annoying 60Hz flicker.
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yeah I think I will grab a pair of the 5000K GEs the next time I go to lowes. i sorta need to expand my F40T12 lampcount since i don't have many of them compared to the number of fixtures.
yep F14T12.
"white" christmas lights?
these two-lamp ballasts cause one lamp to have different flash patterns from the other lamp, lowering the apparent flicker of the lamps.
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It could be those but I'm thinking generic Chinese LED retrofit lamps.
Are you going to buy a case of those CWX lamps now for all these lights you're getting?
Stroboscopic-corrected preheat ballasts! How would those be with EOL, rectifying (but not strobing) lamps? Are non-F40 versions of those around? Did those ever come in a Long John case?
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no. the fixtures in that garage all have new sylvania CWP lamps from when i relamped them.
yeah my 1950s preheater with the long john ballast is a lead-lag ballast (most two lamp preheat ballasts are). i don't know how one would react with an EOL lamp though.
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This lamp I have has a funny typo on the box: When installing or replacing lampstand, please severing the electrical" I can just imagine someone cutting the wires...
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LOL is guess it's a bad translation for "when installing or replacing lamp, disconnect power."
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But what lamp is it?
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i don;t know it's not mine it's yours. :P
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That Chinese LED retrofit lamp I was given...
This light at my godparents' house has a Westy Lifeguard 175 watter...
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The yardblaster!
the brand that never made fluorescent lamps with metal endcaps.
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Westinghouse (Or Ken-Rad since Philips made "Westinghouse" lamps with metal endcaps, I have a F20T12/CW Westy silverender...
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yeah it was westinghouse. There were a few westies with silver ends during the philips takeover but i don't think they were made with westinghouse tooling so i don't think they're actually westies dispite the labeling. i don't know though.
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Mine is a Norelco in disguise.
This light has a vintage Jefferson ballast I found at Restore.
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ahh that makes sense, though i'd think they'd continue using the Norelco name. I guess as soon as they bought Westie they scrapped the Norelco name and jumped instantly to Westinghouse them slowly transitioned to the Philips name?
Umm you got me with that one lol.
Here's an easy one: These are my only two lamps with a red etch: _____________
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No, Norelco was the name before Philips bought Westinghouse since Philco, an electonics/radio company, had said name which sounded too close to "Philips" so there were copyright issues. SO they came up with NORth american philips lighting and ELectrical COrporation. After '84 they stopped using the Norelco name on lighting products. "Philips-Westinghouse Lamps" bulbs were around until at least '86 or '87 from what I've seen on here and LG.
The 34w cool white Watt-Misers!
These work well on a LPF ballast in my garage...
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yeah but you said your lamp is a westie but with Norelco Endcaps with means it's really a Norelco lamp so i guess they went from Norelco then breifly to Westinghouse's etch before they rolled out their own Philips - Westinghouse Lamps etch?
I guess that Philips lamp in my aunt's and uncle's basement very well could be a Norelco lamp in disguise (even though Norelco and Philips are the same thing the Norelco lamps were made differently?)
Your warm white Watt-Misers?
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My only fixture that I would trust 34W lamps in (and am currently running them in)
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No I don't have any /WW Watt-Misers...
Yes, it might be made on Norelco machinery...when I went through my Mom's house after she died I thought about saving those Norelco-made Philips F40CWs but I didn't have anything to replace them with and I had many much more important items to bring back with me...although I did save an old STAR/LOA circline adapter I had there and that GE flip-clock.
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Oops i meant warm white mainlighters lol.
Yeah i think it is since Westie used bakelite ends. They must have switched to the Westinghouse etch until they could configure their own Philips-Westinghouse Lamps etch.
I didn't know your mom had died. I'm sorry to hear that. :'( I remember you saying your mom's old house had Norelco-made Philips F40CWs but i thought you had meant she bought a different house and moved. My friend lost his mom two years ago to cancer. By the time they caught it, it was too advanced. She was pretty much the kindest person I had ever known.
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Enclosed within a glass cylinder, this 1980s screw-in GE lamp goes "ping-ping-ping" when first turned on.
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No but we were worried about her living in that house, being a 4 story house and therefore lots of stairs...
Hers was stage 4 lung cancer by the time they caught it...and the radiation treatment did her in for good.
A GE Compax?
This brand/model of RS F40 ballast always seems rather noisy compared to Advance Kool-Koils and GE Bonuslines...
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My friend's mom had stage 4 lung cancer too. it was rather quick after she was diagnosed though (which was good since she wasn't suffering that long).
umm is it a therm-o-matic? My 1973 one has a slight high pitched MMMMMMM to it but it's not that loud. i think my other therm-o-matics are quiet though. my long-john ballast has a nice hum to it.
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Yep...Mine sounds like a hornet's nest at first then quiets down to a soft hummmmmm...
This brand/model of RS ballast from that era seems to always quit before the other two major ones...
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Hmm i don't know. Is it the Advance AdLites? (just a totally random guess)
This brand made fluorescent ballasts with rubber insulated wires even back in the 60s. they also made ballasts for Valmont.
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Nah Advance Kool-Koil rapid start...
Jefferson?
This ballast I have buzzes loudly at first then quiets down. Hint: You have several of this brand/model and will get more someday with lights in your family.
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GE ballasts. GE made Valmont ballasts back in the day, that's why they used to have Valmont Bonusline ballasts and that's why the 90s Valmont ballasts said VAL-MISER (i guess GE sold that trademark with the Valmont division)
F
Universal Therm-O-Matic. Yep I have three of those. Two are from 1977 and one from 1973. If all the F40T12 Western Electric Spec'ed fixtures have Therm-O-Matic ballasts I'll have four more too. All (2)F40T12/RS versions. I think they're really great ballasts!
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Ditto. Mine has been used regularly (and still is almost daily) for like 35 years and is still going strong!
These F40 ballasts flicker the worst/longest in chilly temps...
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0.73A RS ballasts?
This type of HID has a hard time hot restriking with the lower wattages, often repeatedly failing to strike and arc for a good while. The higher wattages don't seem to have this issue.
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LPF F40 ballasts. I've actually never seen a cold .73a RS ballast's behavior.
Probe-start MH?
These flicker in cold and flash blue at the end when turned on.
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Ahh I've never seen a LPF F40 in the cold... a HPF .73A RS F40 in the cold will flicker like a slimline or a F34 if it gets cold enough. The full power F40 Western Electric lights in my dad's parents' tunnel-like garage start dim and get brighter when the warm up, even in their 25-degrees garage lol. No flickering.
Nope, pulse start MH. For some reason the low wattage lamps will try to restart before they fully cool down and then will shut down and try to start a minute later again and repeat until finally the lamp gives off a bright flash and it starts up again.
Hmm, some sort of instant start tube?
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LPF ballasts with F40s are fussy in even cool temperatures. When we were cleaning out my late mother's house there was no heat in there and on a winter January day (about 50 degrees in the house I'd say) those Norelco-made Philips F40CWs on LPF rapid start ballasts flickered at first till they would warm up.
I bet your F34s on a .73a ballast flicker...mine do on a LPF ballast but they're less flickery and better-starting in cold believe it or not1
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Yeah the F34s in my .73A RS turret striate a lot in the cold. I'm guessing in the warmer weather that won't happen. Do F34s still flicker at start up in warm weather?
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Indoors at normal room temp they don't but 60w slimlines will...my 1996 Sylvania 60w Supersavers flicker when first turned on, even on a full-power ballast. In the 40 degree garage, though...FORGET IT!
This brand commonly made strip fluorescent fixtures, and I like their stuff in general, modern or vintage.
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IDK, Thomas Lighting?
100W MV lamps made in the 80s by this major company dimmed out REALLY badly over the years.
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Lithiona. I've never heard of the aforementioned company except for the slimlines at my godparents' place. Have you? My slimline is made by Lithiona, who made all sorts of nice strip fixtures. (I also have a 1XF20T12 fixture that looks like a smaller twin)
GE?
175w MV lamps made by this company easily go 300,000 hours and still going!
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No I've never heard of them either. The slimline fixtures at my grandpa's shop are all Lithonia except for three in the back which look very old.
yep, GE
Westinghouse!
Lamps of this color temperature tend to flicker by nature on magnetic ballasts for some reason.
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5000K!
These flicker when turned on even at room temperature!
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F24T8 GE lamps.
I have one of these installed in the fixture in my room in regular service. It's NOS and paired with what brand FS-2 starter?
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I was thinking 60w F96 slimlines but yeah those things are miserable too! Did yours flicker like that?
A Westy blackender F14T12.
These lamps are in a fixture in my garage on a LPF Radionic magnetic rapid start ballast and do surprisingly well in cold:
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Sylvania 60W SuperSavers? I've never had an F24T8/F18T8. My 3500K F17T8s never flickered though and they were all GE EcoLuxes. They didn't last long in instant start ballasts though...
This brand of starter is in my F14T12 strip light:
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GE-made Ace 34w lamps actually...
GE maybe? IDK...I often don't pay much attention to starters compared to lamps...
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Ahh no it's a metal cased NOS Leviton starter from the 70s sometime. Nice and blink-happy. BTW, today i got two starters from school today. One's a Hemco FS-25 18-25W 33" circline starter. It was in a F15T8 germicidal fixture and it runs a F14T12. The other was a Radionic Hi-Tech, Inc. FS-2 starter. this one was in a F15T12 fixture with a GE F15/WW home light lamp with the little house logo on it but i didn't snag any lamps since i didn't want to get caught...
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Nice!
This brand/model/era of ballast tends to buzz till it warms up.
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is it Universal? All ballast tend to buzz louder when first powered up compared to after they've ran for a while. It's especially noticable with HIDs since they're not potted and the lamp draws more current while it's warming up.
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Yep a Universal Therm-O-Matic for two 40w lamps.
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These, along with 5000K lamps, tend to have a 6oHz flicker on magnetic ballasts that's especially noticeable:
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When ungrounded, 34 watt lamps seem to start more reliably on these ballasts:
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NPF preheat ballasts?
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Close...LPF 2X30/40w rapid start ballasts.
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Hmm i didn't know they made those in two lamp. I've only seen single lamp ones.
This 2ft lamp works better on preheat and trigger start than it's 1-watt-higher companion.
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Seriously? You've never seen a cheap LPF shoplight ballast? Wow!
F17T8 vs. F18T8?
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Well that's a good thing isn;t it? I've only seen the single lamp F30/F40 LPF/NPF ballasts and the preheat LOA shoplites.
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You're not missing much, trust me! You're surrounded by F40 preheat shoplights instead while I'm surrounded by cheapo modern ones and a few 70s ones with full-power rapid start ballasts.
These develop a teardrop black spot right before EOL:
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These were common before spiral CFLs but they're still made, oddly enough! You'd think they would have long since been discontinued!
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preheat PL adapters! ;D Well, there must be some demand for them someplace or else they'd be out of business lol.
This type of lamp was commonly found indoors before fluorescent highbays started taking over. Now it's mainly used for parking lots, that is if the store hasn't "upgraded" to LEDs.
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Probe-staart 400w metal halide?
These are often used on boats and their orange glow can be seen for MILES!
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I was aiming for MH in general but yeah, before the late 90s, 400W probe start MH was the big thing. Starting in the late 90s to early 2000s though, people started retrofitting to 320W or 350W PSMH or installing new 320 or 350W PSMH fixtures. Now it's T8 and T8 highbays...
Hm neon? I dunno. :(
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1Kw HPS floods. The ONLY good use for HPS IMO except maybe a grow light...the orange glow has poor CRI but excellent contrast which is handy in fog/rain where white light would be blinding...
This style of ballast will supposedly go through lamps more quickly than a standard preheat or rapid start would:
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This acronym came out since it's company's overseas and Canadian name sounded too close to Philco...
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Norelco (not Norcleo!!! lol)
This company recently came out with a mini high bay light that utilizes a white bucket reflector and three round junction box extenders stacked on top of each other and uses 35W HPS lamps. ;D
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McCann Lighting
This big-3 lamp maker went to CWX both after EPACT and in July 2012 after the two CW bans...
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Sylvania? I think GE did too. Their F40/CWs with the lower lumen output and shorter life expectancy are CWX lamps in disguise. GE just doesn't like to use the "normal" names. :8)
I will not buy new lamps from the company unless they're full mercury. I will still but eco lamps from the other two big companies though.
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Philips.
This is my favorite CCT.
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CCT? what's that?
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Correlated Color Temperature (i.e 4100K)
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This lamp of mine is spent with a broken cathode but still lights on rapid start under certain conditions and I remember seeing it as a kid in my honorary grandather's garage and even ignorantly mis-installed it, hence it being ruined, as a 10 year old...
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These give off a nasty greenish-yellowish light...
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lite-white fluorescent lamps?
These are my favorite style photocell, with the squared, tinted window. I just think they're so cool, but only the pre-2000 ones...
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Nah CW ES lamps but you're right! I'd like to find a LW, I have one on my radar...
Ripley SunSwitch?
This brand of photocell is on my yardblaster...it's a gray thermal one from 1993...
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Yep a Ripley SunSwitch!
Fisher Pierce :D
This fixture in my collection is my highest wattage fixture (400W MV) and is NOS from March 1973:
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One of the GEs, isn't it?
This is my favorite style of GE etch:
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Yeah it's my M-400 split door, your M-400A's look-alike! (well, with the ballast mounted on the top housing instead)
The big meatball etch from around 1991-1996, right? My favorite GE etch is the GENERAL (GE) ELECTRIC etch used from the 50s until around 1990 (and maybe used before that too).
My favorite Sylvania etch is ________.
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Yup! I like the old etch a lot too.
The 'Lifeline' one?
My preheat setup is in a ( ) brand shopligt
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Sears brand?
This is my only 50W HPS light fixture and one of my three HPS fixtures (well one of four if you count the incomplete homemade mini high-bay fixture).
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Yep, a Sears shoplight.
A Cooper OVC? Or OVZ?
These were a "Disposable" fluorescent fixture.
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Yep, my OVC. The OVC was predecessor to the OVZ so I can see why you'd confuse them (plus if you're not really into cobras a tone then that explains things too!)
I honestly don't know.
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I knew it was OV-something LOL...
The GE BrightStik!
These have been known to do in excess of THREE HUNDRED THOUSAND hours and are still working...
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175W MV lifeguard lamps! :D Yeah the 60s mercs in general would keep on going strong. :) If it wasn't for the HPS changeout, many would still be up with their original lamps!
This lamp cycles at EOL and is NOT HPS.
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PSMH? A rectifying F96T12 slimline on the "lag" side whose ballast overheats and trips the thermal cutout over and over?
Which piece of equipment I'm also into are little fuse lamps used in the dial panel of?
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Yep PSMH.
vintage stereos/tuners?
I used three fixtures of this wattage and lamp type for my brother's halloween/birthday party last night.
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Yup! Are you into those too Mike? I sure am, though I don't have any yet.
175w mercury vapor.
These often have a rated line current of 1.45a:
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Hmm not particularly. Newer speakers sound "weird" in my opinion though. Some have too low of a bass.
Slimline?
This fluorescent ballast is rated for two amps at 120V.
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Yeah I agree. Actually, older speakers sound "weird" because I'm used to newer ones. Now, vinyl...I can't believe it's the same song I've been hearing on the radio for years!
I'm going to try to get that 1978 JVC tuner/amplifier/turntable from my godparents...if so I'll post pics.
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Yeah, slimline. I don't know...F96/HO?
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(2) F90T17 ballast. 8)
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LOL I'm pretty unfamiliar with T17s.
These make wood appear greenish
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Lite White 34W T12 lamps? Or could it be 60-range CRI cool white fluorescent? (Are standard cool white lamps with the regular /CW etch all 60-range CRI?)
These small fluorescent lamps have two pins, an internal glowbottle starter, and are known for their blinky start-up.
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/CW
PL-S. (Honestly my least favorite type of fluorescent).
These trip their thermal cutout if used with more than about a 75w A19 lamp:
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Why would you run a 75W incandescent off a ballast? :P :o Is it a LPF 2X F40 ballast?
This wattage/lamp type street light is in font of my house.
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It's a recessed "can" light with built-in thermal cutout. No ballast involved...unless you put a CFL in there I suppose.
100w GE M-250R2?
These often turn on unexpectedly when the wind blows leaves on trees, etc. AND TURN OFF at the most unopportuned times leaving you jumping up and down waving your arms. They're generally lighting-gallery-non-approved it seems...
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oh, that's weird. Never heard of that before, but it sounds like a good idea so the fixture doesn't overheat.
Yep. I was only looking for 100w and HPS but you got the brand and model number too. :)
Ugh those darn motion sensor lights. >:( :8)
This lamp manufacturer produces a household LED lamp that won the L-Prize award.
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YEP! There's one at my dad's girlfriend's house that turns off WAY too quickly IMO (20-30 seconds I'd say). Just long enough to get up 4 or 5 steps to the porch, enough for people like me but not for people who've never been there before IMO.
Philips.
This brand has F40 lamps that start dim and flickery in the middle.
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Yeah our motion sensor light in the back was set for 10 seconds but I set the timer for the longest setting (whatever it is). I want to replace the motion sensor with a PC but I don't know how to take the thing off the wall since the screws aren't visible!
Hmm well I've has issues with Philips and Sylvania and a member on Lg said he had that issue with a GE-made ACE lamp, but Sylvania seems to have the flickering lamps the most...
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I don't remember anymore but it was probably Sylvania. I had a somewhat-low-on-mercury GE-made F40SP41 do that but I gave it away recently.
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Hmm I've never had a low-on-mercury GE. GE tubes actually have the highest mercury content among the big three. Philips has the least mercury. Their T8s don't even have enough mercury to reach their rated life without going mercury starved!
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It seems that way nowadays for sure, it's the most rare to see a GE go starved. I have one I think is starting do do so though, a very well used F32T8/SP35/ECO with BLACK 1.5" in from each end. It looks dim in the middle next to a much newer and brighter F32T8/SPX35/ECO.
These get "moldy" spots:
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Hmm I wonder if the lamp is just loosing lumens? Ever noticed with T8s that they're slightly dimmer and a slightly different color when first turned on? I noticed it with the /741 Sylvania lamps at my school.
older F34s?
These lamps are 4700K 800 Series lamps that have 3500 lumens.
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Yeah I'm sure phosphor depreciation is to blame as well, and yes, I have indeed seen what you're describing.
Yep.
I don't know.
These are made in Thailand and I have at least one posted, at least on LG.
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LOL it was a F40/M lamp. :P ;D
No idea on the lamp you describe.
This brand seems to make the best T8 lamps out of the big three.
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GE? I'd say Sylvania but they have the dim-starting issue. I highly doubt it's Philips.
These generate a soft, blue hue that's very pleasant IMO.
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Yeah GE. I'm actually seeing a lot of Sylvanias fail early in my school (and in general service). Target and WalMart use GE lamps and there aren't too many dead lamps (but WalMart tends to have plenty of dead ballasts!) I've always been a fan of Sylvania since their lamps seem more "old school" to me with the basic etches on the T12s and I still like Sylvania, but for fluorescents I think GE is the best buy. Plus GE's F96T8 slimlines are still full mercury! :D
5000K or 6500K?
When I visited my great-aunt to replace her outlets, I converted her garage strips to T8 and relamped the 8ft preheater. What were the two color temps I used for the T8s and T12s? (I used one color for thr three T8 lamps and one color for the two F40s).
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They don't seem well-suited to frequently-switched situations, whereas GEs do a little bit better.
Yes, 6500K
I think the T8s were 3500K and the T12s were 6500K.
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The GEs in the votech building from 2006 on IS ballasts are still doing good whereas the Sylvanias in the main building from only a few years ago on PS ballasts are already starting to fail in my school. The GE's seem to have a lower premature failure rate compared to the Sylvanias, at least from what I see. GE T8s just seem to fare better in all applications IMO. I'm thinking Sylvania T8s have more flimsey electrodes that are more fragile on electronic ballasts, but they fail early on programmed start ballats that are infrequently switched at my school so who knows lol. when they do fail they get REALLY black. The ballasts at my school must not have EOL protection. The Sylvania ballasts in the votech building's IS fixtures do not have EOL protection but the GEs don't get nearly has black on the ends after EOL. The entire end of a Sylvania lamp at my school is jet black after EOL. The GEs are visibly black but the fact that they're dead isn't obvious, since they just appear like well-used lamps that are turned off instead of jet black.
Yep the T8s were 2006 GE F32T8/SPX35 lamps from my votech building at my school and the T12s were 2008 Philips Alto F40T12/DX lamps from my grandpa's troffers (one of them has trouble starting, so i replaced the lamps, thinking the lamps were bad, but it wasn't the lamps. So the /DX lamps are essentially NOS).
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Yeah I have some 6500K and 4100K Octrons not super frequently switched (and not heavily used for about 9 months out of the year) that are going on 2 years and some SP35 GEs that are going on 3 years that are pretty black but still working.
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My only fixtures in use that have blackened lamps had blackening on the lamps when I put them into use since the fixture I have installed aren't used enough to produce any visible wear on them (except for on IS).
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Same.
I'm trying to figure out a way to power one of these with stuff I have laying around the house already.
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To power Octrons? If you have a NPF F40 ballast rated for 25 or 30W lamps, you can probably get away with using T8s I haven't tested T8s o a NPF ballast so I don't know if it would work. Trent would probably have a good idea if it would or not since he's good with testing things like that. I don't have tools to meter power so I rely on others lol.
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No, guess again. It's something else.
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Oh, the HPS lamp. Don't count on it, you need very job-specific stuff. :P (a BBQ igniter and a few fluorescent chokes in series would probably do the trick).
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Yeah that's what I was thinking too.
These have very fragile filaments and get really bright right before they burn out.
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C7 "nightlight" lamps? Some of them can draw as much as 30W before they brurn out. :o That's pretty crazy seeing that they consume 4-7W during their lifetime!
This wattage of MV lamp commonly used for street lighting dims out the fastest when compared to others. After a certain amount of lumens is dropped, the lamp typically stops dimming out and just maintains the same (usually useless) light output until it burns out.
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Yeah. 400 watt? 100 watt?
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100W MV lamps. The ones lower than 100W are bad with dimming too but they were never used for street lighting in the US and Cnanda (other than for some rare post top installations or privately-owned lighting). The 100W MV lamps have a thinner diameter arc tube when compared to other mogul base lamps and of course it's shorter than higher wattage lamps too so naturally they blacken faster than higher wattage lamps too. They also have smaller electrodes too so they generally didn't make it as long as their higher wattage counterparts. Joe Mauarath Jr said after the mid-60s the 100W MV lamps were "crappy", specifically the Sylvania ones. He said after only a few years they'd dim out, much like today's mercs. 175W+ lamps remained good in in terms of light output through the 70s.
The 80s GE MV lamps were noticably much worse than ones from the 70s with dimming out rapidly. Even GE's post-Bonusline mercs still maintained fairly good lumen output until the 1980s, when GE started focusing more on developing MH lamps and making the final improvements on HPS lamps. At this time GE was having issues with their new 50W HPS lamps (50W HPS rolled out in 1980). The arc tube seal kept failing on them. They were so bad that GE offered free replacements for hundreds of failed lamps in a town in Massachusetts (and I'm sure others as well). Those replacements also failed early and GE yet again offered free replacements, which apparently held up. I'm not sure if their other 80s HPS lamps were bad or not but their low-wattage HPS lamps were excellent in the 90s, right at the peak of the HPS changeout. I know a lot of 50 and 100W HPS fixtures with 90s GE lamps in them, still going strong! I've noticed that GE's mid-90s 250W HPS lamps have an issue with not warming up all the way (they get stuck in the LPS-like deep orange-gold glow). I'm thinking that might be a sign of the outer vacuum lost (arctube seal fine, but the outer envelope seal broken). HPS lamps need the outer envelope vacuum to warm up all the way because under normal atmospheric pressure, the arc tube can't retain enough heat to warm up. With MV lamps, the vacuum only serves (as far as I know) as a heat buffer since the arc tube runs really hot. The vacuum in a HPS lamp serves the same purpose, as HPS arc tubes run at 1000's of degrees celcius but without the vacuum the lamp can't warm up enough to create intense heat anyway. In the mid-2000s, GE's mercs has issues with the arc tube seals but I don't know if it's since been fixed or not. I don't know about their HPS lamp quality but I heard it wasn't too great either a few years ago. NGrid uses Sylvania lamps now so that must say something...
As for Westinghouse lamps, they really remained top-notch all the way through the 80s when Philips swallowed up their lamp division. Their 100W mercs also had the dimming-out problem but it's just the design of the lamp that makes it prone to blackening faster than 175W+ lamps. 175 and 250W mercs share the same arc tube diameter (250W is just longer). 400W MV has a wider and longer arctube. I think 700 and 1000W share the same diameter arc tube but I don't know. When Philips took over, the MV lamps were soon degraded to the equivalent of GE's MV lamps or maybe worse. Philips' HPS lamps remained pretty good (HPS was the craze back in the 80s and 90s so HPS was the equivalent of what LEDs are to Philips now) but once the Alto generation of HPS lamps came out, their quality went down the tube. Since the end of the 90s their MV lamps are royally sucked too, the arctube frame welds are poor and normal vibration from being in service often breaks the arc tube welds so the arc tube ends up just sitting at the bottom of the envelope.
As for Sylvania, they really weren't used a ton here so Joe Maurath Jr hasn't mentioned much of them to me other than the fact that even their 60s 100W MV lamps really sucked. The electrodes were even smaller than GE's or Westy's and they dimmed much faster. I have a 70s Sylvania 100W BT25 cleartop that's about as bright as a 40W incandescent. Joe gave it to me with the M-250A. He said he was surprised that it still works, as it was pretty typical of those lamps to just go out after "X" number of years. I think their 175W+ lamps were fairly good. Never heard anything bad about them so they weren't terrible but never heard anything great about them either. Like I said, they weren't used much here (only when NEES or EUA ran low on lamps and GE or Westinghouse couldn't get out a shipment fast enough lol) so most of Joe's Sylvania lamps are from municipal utilities or from trades or from auctions, etc. I have a few 80s Sylvania 50W HPS lamps and notice that they take forever to warm up (as long as 15-20 minutes like a LPS) and they don't seem quite as bright as some known-working 50W lamps so I'm guessing they, too, had issues with their early 50W HPS lamps, which is odd since you'd think everyone would have made their 50W lamps like they made their 70W and 100W lamps. EUA always used 70W HPS though, never used 50W HPS. And NEES used 70W HPS until the early-to-mid 90s until the HPS takeover, when they used all 50W HPS and no more 70W HPS. I guess they took notice of the 50W HPS failures and stayed clear of the until quaility was improved.
Overall, I think Westinghouse made the best lamps regardless of the type (HID, fluorescent, incandescent, etc, though incandescents seem to have been consistant across the board up until the 90s when most production was moved to Mexico or China, though the Mexican GE incandescents were still decent, the Chinese ones totally suck though). For modern lamps, I'm all Sylvania for incandescents and halogens since the GEs just suck and the Philips don't seem great either. For fluorescents I prefer GEs but have nothing against Sylvania fluorescents. For HID, Sylvania makes the best HPS, MH, and MV lamps IMO but for MH and PSMH Philips is great, namely for their ceramic arc tube MH/PSMH lamps. Philips makes the best CMH lamps IMO.
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Very informative! Imagine what we could learn from each other in person!
These are horrible in terms of CA flicker!
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Yeah we've got lots of info on lighting, me more so HID and you more so fluorescent.
CA flicker? Not sure what that is. :-\ I'll say energy-saving T12s just for the heck of it though? lol
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AC flicker that is...nah /950s.
These seem more susceptible to line voltage fluctuations than their better counterparts.
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These act as a great space heater and portable/personal sun:
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highbay lights without the reflector mounted upside-down! :P ;D
My bedroom street light display works well as a heater too when I use a 175W MV fixture. 100W MV generates a little heat but only raises the room temperature about half a degree over 2-3 hours compared to 175W, which can raise the temperature as much as one degree per hour and really iss too much light for my room, though I use it anyway lol. I may install my OV-10IB outside sometime but I don't want to expose it to the environment after cleaning it up lol. It took a lot of time and effort to totally scrub the thing clean lol. The M-250R that's out there now just got a wash and a light scrub with a steel wool pad (and a ballast change). I'd install my OVC but it's not bright enough out there. The M-250A2 FCO I'll be getting is the same wattage and lamp type as my OVC (50W HPS) but I'll probably still mount it outside at some point just to have it mounted outside. I've always wanted one of those really cool boxy M-250A2 FCOs.
This style incandescent lamp coating is my favorite.
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Inside-frost rough-service lamps? I like the "halo" effect but I'm more of the type that leans toward putting a 6500K CFL in it's place.
These have the lamps spaced widely and are one of my favorite fixture types:
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Yep!
Turrets?
These lamps are in use in the Lithonia 2X4 parabolic troffers in the votech building hallways at my school.
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Close...vintage shoplights with large reflectors and metal thicker than that of a soda can!
I like turrets too though, I'd like to find one!
GE Ecolux F32T8/SP35s?
The longest/highest wattage fluorescent light is this: (Be as specific as you can about the fixture, ballast, lamp brand/color temp/wattage, and of course the vintage-ness of those 3 componets.
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close, SPX35s. :)
No idea, but isn't it a sign light lamp that's actually two tubes spliced together?
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Wrong! (That would be cool though!). It's an (I think 80s?) Lithonia 2XF96T12 slimline striplight with a full power (1.45a line current) Advance ballast that's post-PCB and has the "Big A" label design, running a pair of 1996 Sylvania cool white 60w SuperSaver lamps.
This is the SHORTEST and lowest linear fluorescent in use in my house (NOT a CFL or circline adapter or PL lamp)
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Mini T5s? or an F15T8?
I plan to buy a case of these F32T8s next time my construction class goes to Lowe's (since no way in hell am I bringing a case to school on the bus lol)
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A couple preheat-operated F15T8s.
Oh wow you guys all go to Lowes? So sweet of you to buy lamps for them!
What brand of ballast did the first vintage shoplight I found have? (And still have?)
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Yeah, probably a little too generous lol. But afterall, lighting isn't a hobby, it's a passion... Yeah we have a small public transit bus that we have that we use to go to Lowe's when we need shop supplies. We usually go there one every couple months or so.
Bonusline!
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Yup! It's lit as I type.
The oldest F40 lamp I currently have is this: (Month/year/brand/F40what?)
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How do you expect me to know that? :P ;D I can't even guess the brand lol (I'll guess GE though? Or norelco?)
This is the lamp I'll use to relamp the F40/RS safety fixture in the second shop we use:
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A May 1977 GE F40CW Mainlighter!
A Sylvania F40CWX, or maybe a GE C41. Or that other 34w Philips you have.
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Yeah Sylvania CWX. The GE C41s are the same lumen and CRI ratings as CWX but the color the lamp is more CWP-ish than CWX-ish (no purple tint) so I actually prefer the GEs, though i like the SPX41s better. I didn't realize there was a difference at the time since both types are labeled "utility cool white" (or whatever GE calls them) and look identical except C41s are a few bucks cheaper (and turns out around a thousand lumens dimmer too).
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Yeah they're basically CWX. I've seen the 34w Watt-Miser version, though those seem to have been replaced by the CX41 now which I think is brighter. Not sure though since all the lamps I'm around on a daily basis are actually pre-2012 CWs and SP41s, and any newer ones are plain CWX or /950s.
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Oh yeah maybe the others are CX41 and not SPX41... I don't know lol...
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This brand/era of ballast tends to have capacitors go bad, reducing lamp current and eventually not lighting at all:
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Therm-O-Matics or 80s Advance ballasts.
These ballasts tend to overheat and spew tar all over the inside of the fixture.
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80s Advance. I personally joke any post-80s Advance ballast has an "Advanced" failure rate compared to other brands, which is annoying since they're the most common it seems!
A GE Bonusline! I have one like that, but it still works, and is used every day for long hours unattended as a plant light.
These "Thump" when turned on then "Chatter" if the lamps are cold.
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Hmm funny thing is that I never come across those Advance ballasts. :P I tend to keep finding Universal or magnetek ballasts lol.
Slimlines. ;D
These have the most interesting warm-up phase compared to any other HID IMO.
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Older HPS lamps which start grayish, turn mercury blue-green, then xenon white, then pinkish, then LPS monochromatic yellow, then slightly whiter with slightly better CRI.
Pre-mid 90s T12 fluorescent lamps made by this big-3 brand blacken heavily before actually dying.
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Yeah HPS lamps have a cool warm up in general. Older MH lamps are interesting too.
GE. :D
This company's T8 tubes blacken a lot before dying...
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GE!
This is my favorite fluorescent color temp:
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5000K 90CRI
These are my favorite two color temperatures (with 800 Series phosphors)
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3500K and 5000K
This is my favorite fluorescent size:
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F96T12 slimline? Or F40T12?
The first vintage fluorescent fixture I ever got:
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Both of those too but the 8' slimlines in particular.
A vintage shoplight with a Universal Therm-O-Matic ballast rated only for 40w lamps from February 1973 that you've since totally repainted and have hanging in your basement.
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Yep. :D ;D
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This is the highest-wattage light I use in my home:
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400W MH?
This is the most recently made street light in my collection, made in 1997.
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Yep, now used every day in my office/lighting junk room.
1997 50w HPS Cooper OVC I think?
I use these as nightlights instead of your standard 4w C7s:
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Nope, the OVC is from 1990, but you were close. My M-400A2 is the one from 1997.
Hmm you use Christmas light mini-lights, don't you?
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close, but more specifically LED ones.
This fixture in my house has a UL tag with the line voltage and amps HANDWRITTEN!
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Well minis come in incandescent or LED. :P
Dunno.
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It's a 80s Lithonia 2XF96T12 striplight. Right at the beginning of cheap lame fixtures, but still decent, and my first/only eight footer! (I'd always wanted one since getting interested in fluorescents, so I jumped on that offer).
These are always pretty buzzy no matter what you do it seems (Even stuffing a sock in there like a LG buddy was thinking of doing)
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Haha MH highbays! :P ;D Yeah sometimes I wonder about him lol...
These T8 lamps are popular in preheat undercabinet lights.
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Nah he's just as "creative" as I am...I've done some stupid/dangerous things too like that and have been pretty "lucky"...never had a fire or anything. \
F15T8/CWs.
This fixture at my house has an Advance Kool-Koil ballast that sometimes trips it's thermal cutout, even with 40 watt lamps:
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LOL So have I. I'm sure we all have, but I honestly don't think it should be condoned on the site. It just makes us all look like we have no respect for electricity. To be honest, I don't care what people do in their own homes, as long as they realize the risks associated with any bad wiring, but I don't think people should be showcasing electrical hack jobs in the gallery. I think we should at least encourage proper wiring and electrical safety... You're sort of the exception to the rule since you're off-grid lol. Sure, it's still just as dangerous as on grid, but I don't know, it just doesn't seem as dangerous lol.
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Oh it could still burn my house down just as easily but yeah it "seems" less dangerous. I've seem worse things though...half a house fed off a 2 prong plug for example!
These can be confusing to wire up since they don't have decicated "line" side leads...rather they go through the cutout lampholders:
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slimlines! Yeah I heard they're weird to wire up.
This type of ballast is the "big brother" to bi-pin RS ballasts.
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Not so much hard as a little confusing to a RS-orinented person. The ballasts have no "hot" and "neutral", it goes through one of the lampholders.
F96T12/VHO?
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I was thinking HO but I guess VHO is kinda the same thing.
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Ah true.
These are always a little on the noisy size, but it's a soft hum.
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therm-o-matics?
these ballasts tend to have bad caps, especially those from the 80s (though most capacitors from the 80s were poor quality, as the "dry" PCB-less capacitors were a fairly new technology at that time)
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Close! I was thinking slimlines, but a Universal Therm-O-Matic slimline could be that way! (I do have the younger cousin of those though, Universal Watt-Reducer slimline ballasts)
Advance! I personally joke Advance ballasts in general have an "Advanced" failure rate compared to other brands.
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Ah yeah slimlines always seem to be noisy but it's a nice noisy lol. I think the HO that I'm eyeing at my grandpa's shop has a nice buzz to it as well. I believe HO lamps are still old-school cool white, aren't they? Right now it's got a pair of 110W 4100K Altos with blue ends (the ends glow blue for some reason, but the lamps work fine and aren't mercury starved or anything). The other HO has GE tubes I think. The other HO is blocked by a ton of crap so I can't really tell, though it works. This second one has the reflector sections bolted on with bolts though instead of with clips like the HO near the door that I'd take if I had the room. If I had to choose between HO and SL though I'd definitely side with HO though.
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I probably would too, though I honestly prefer SL.
Not sure if they're still old school halo cool white. I know technically you're supposed to use the 95w energy savers unless it's a cold temp situation (Which an unheated shop would be) but no harm comes from using 110s in a warm place...I sure would!
Sounds like they actually have a decent amount of mercury...I thought the F96/HO Alto sucked but maybe not! I know someone's shop that has some Lithonia F48T12/HO industrials with Altos from 2003 and they are BRIGHT! Even in subfreezing temps they striate and act mercury starved for a bit (Probably only because they're Altos) then warm right up! And they're rarely used so if they had low mercury it would show since they're turned on literally a few times a year, if that. HOs would work much better in my unheated garage/shop but regular F40s (And even F34s) are JUST okay with the winters here...some LPF ballasted shoplights with 34w lamps never quit striating but are usable brightness so that's all I care about. Slimlines would be a different story, they'd have to have 75w lamps for sure. And 34s don't do well with those LOA type ballasts either...you want 40s for those with our winter temps.
Now, if I lived in Fairbanks or something HO and full wattage lamps would be a must, and they might even still really struggle in those sort of temps.
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Hmm that's weird, I think they still sell 110W lamps and they're not labeled FOR COLD TEMPS ONLY. Come to think of it though, I don;t know if the lamps are 95W or 110W though... Those Altos be bought better be good since they cost him like $14 for the pair lol. At least with ES slimline and HO lamps they don't hurt the ballast since the ballasts are typically rated for shorter lamps. ES F40T12 lamps are just ballast fryers. ES slimline lamps are junk though. They're OK in the summer (but pretty dim) and in the winter they're terrible. They don't stop flickering! Flickering light really irritates me.
Yeah you can actually fry an LOA shoplite if you use 34W lamps (with the older ones at least) since, like the Benchlite ballasts, are built only to run 40W lamps (and run them at like 40% power lol).
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Yeah my 60w slimlines are actually pretty bright in a 75 degree room on the second floor of my house (heat rises) but if it gets below 60m degrees FORGET IT! They're kinda cool to watch though when they striate IMO.
I've heard that too but never have had it happen, though in subfreezing temps 34s won't start and the "starter" buzzes continuously which can't be good. With 40s they strobe wildly but will eventually warm up.
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Do you have 75W lamps to compare them to? The 75W ones are noticeably brighter. The effect is more dramatic with those horrible 60W CWX lamps, which are essentially the brightness of a F40T12 but stretched out to twice the length. The last time I was at my grandpa's shop (when I got the Harmony House preheater) I replaced a few 60W lamps just because they're so dim. Those Sylvania 60W CWX lamps really last a long time though. They just don't quit! I remember one that has markings on it and it's still working in the spraybooth after 10+ years!
Wow 75 degrees is a little warm for me. Is your bedroom that temperature or is it on the first floor? My room is usually 67-68 degrees around this time of year, which I find comfortable. That's my ideal room temperature, with an ideal air temperature in the upper 50s to upper 60s
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No I don't otherwise I'd have them in there already LOL. But that's something I'm looking for now.
LOL the worst lamps never die! Same for 90s-early 00s GE 4' Watt-Misers. Despite being flickery 34w energy savers they last practically forever, I see them in commercial use to this day with little or no noticeable wear! (I've killed several though on my own so they're not Andy-proof I guess.) They're good tester lamps though or "use up" lamps (Which is what I'm doing in all my LPF rapid start shoplights and wraparounds).
It's on the second floor directly in line with a woodstove LOL. That room where the slimline currently is is the junk room (Full of lighting stuff, etc) and you have to go through there to my bedroom which I close the door on at night so it's cooler, though even this time of year I'm opening the window!
I like it nice and warm, though for the nicer 6 months of the year I don't run the woodstove at all and let it get down to 55 in here LOL...at that point the slimline would be flickering wildly I'm sure.
That house in Atascadero got nice and hot though in the summer...and guess what? The A/C didn't work for the last decade or so. But it was in a grove of oak trees, which helped...the weather reports would always say it was way hotter than what it actually was at our house. But we'd get in the car and drive 45 minutes to the beach, down the same road many car commercials are filmed on!
I miss that area a lot...I'm considering moving back there. Lots of places for a big lot like we'd both want, etc.
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Ah that's true lol. Yeah "Only the Good [Bulbs] Die Young" lol.
Are the "nicer six months of the year" the summer or spring/fall? 55 is nice for during the day when I'm dressed and busy working but a little cool when I'm in bed since i only wear a pair of boxer shorts to sleep, even in the dead of winter. I will also wear a pair of socks if i have to get up early in the winter since i don't want to touch the cold floor first thing in the morning and don't want to leave my warm bed lol. In the summer though I'm usually awake early though since I'm a furnace when i sleep, so often in the summertime I can't sleep because I'm too warm.
Yeah the area in Atascadero seems nice. As long as you don't get a house near the "drummer bummers" lol.
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Yeah the spring/summer/fall, from about April to about October. It gets HOT here sometimes, I have pics of thermometers at 120 even though it wasn't probably that hot I'm sure I've seen days where it's been in the 90s for sure. I've also gotten REALLY BAD sunburn up here too!
I like it cooler when I sleep but warm during the day.
LOL yeah, the only exception to that rule would be buying back the house I spent most of my childhood in (Which I would do in a heartbeat, and just go drive 45 minutes to the beach on those days)
Maybe not so much Atascadero as some of the other places right around it, though.
Remember how we talked about how irritiating it is waking up to landscapers in the morning? Well ironically after saying it's been quiet a couple of my neighbors have been out and about on their tractors and 4 wheelers respectively, so it almost sounds like I live next to a road LOL. And in the summer since my place is waterfront I get lots of fishing activity noise too from about July-September.
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Wow I picture it never getting over the 80s in Alaska lol. You can even get sunburn in the winter. Here, the spring is the worst for sunburn since the "hole" in the ozone is over my region that time of the year. I'm pale so I burn pretty easily. My skin actually has a pinkish tone to it all the time. My eyes are very sensitive to sunlight too. I need sunglasses even on cloudy days when there's snow on the ground since it reflects the light from the clouds. There's a picture in Joe's gallery of us when we met up at the Vaughan Mills shopping center (biggest single-level mall I've ever seen in my life!).
Today it got up to around 40*F and we got some snow/rain. It was only an inch or two to shovel but it was hard since the snow weighed as much as wet concrete lol. I'd rather get two feet of light fluffy snow than two inches of the wet slushy crap. Plus, the wet slushy stuff will all freeze up whereas the fluffy stuff is already frozen. Tonight it's supposed to get down into the single digits and the high tomorrow is supposed to be around 15*F so everything will be an ice rink tomorrow. I shoveled my driveway down to the pavement though and the sun dried the driveway so there will no no ice on my driveway, but the roads will be a mess I'm sure.
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Yeah I hate wet snow too!
These ballasts are huge, heavy, and EOL or energy saver lamps often cause tar leaks, if not total failure:
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slimline?
This T8 lamp actually came out before it's same size and wattage T12 cousin.
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F15T8?
I paddled across a local waterway in a canoe with this fixture, then walked almost a mile with it in my arms, exotic sawdust falling off it the whole way. I then got it home, and opened it up, and realized I'd scored this: (Fixture type, brand, and brand/type/era of ballast). Extra credit: It had (blank) for lamps:
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Yep the F15T8 came out a while before the F15T12. In general, the F15T8 is for preheat and the F15T12 is for trigger start. I've seen preheat F15T12 fixtures but never seen a F15T8 trigger start fixture. I don't think F15T8s are really compatible with TS. I tried an F15T8 on my F15T12 TS strip and the ends glowed but the lamp wouldn't light unless touched and if you didn't touch it within a few minutes it wouldn't start at all.
Uh, would this be the Sears shoplight with the GE Bonusline ballast and possibly mainlighter lamps?
This was my second street light in my collection. It's NOS and it was bought off ebay in 2010. I'm looking for the brand, model number, wattage/lamp type, and ballast voltages if you can get that too. A hint: the light is my highest-wattage light in the collection currently (I probably just gave it away now lol).
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Yeah, the first Sears shoplight, with the Bonusline. It had post-EPACT, pre-HG cool white 34w Watt-Misers, but I never even tried them in that fixture, instead using a pair of those ahem...legendary...2011 Sylvania F40/CWP lamps.
GE M-400-something, 400w mercury vapor, and multitap, right?
This fixture lights my backyard, but not in dusk-to-dawn like it's designed to:
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Yep it's actually just the M-400 (but sometimes referred to as the M-400 split door by collectors do distinguish it from the 60s M-400). Yep it's 400W MV and technically the ballast has multiple taps, but it's not a multi-tap ballast since multi-tap is 120/208/240/277. My ballast would be considered dual-tap, with 120 and 240V taps. A few of my GE lights have those ballasts.
Electripak 175W MV yard blaster with cracked/missing diffuser with a 1990s Fisher Pierce PC with the window missing IIRC.
This light is currently in my backyard, currently with a super-browned-out lens, a clear 175W MV lamp, and a 60s tall Ripley photocell.
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Yep, though the photocell works just fine! (Except it's under an eve so it doesn't shut of as early in the morning as it could)
I'm not sure LOL.
My F96 slimline lamps are these: (brand, color, wattage, and year made)
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If the PC was fully exposed to the elements it would probably short out and either dayburn or keep the light off 24/7.
GE M-250R, 175W MV 120/240V from November 1965.
Sylvania SuperSaver 4100K. IDK the year...
This is my oldest GE street light in the collection (hint, see above).
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The window is intact...that's what I mean by it's just fine.
Yep, from 1996.
M-250R?
This is the oldest F40 lamp I've ever had (Don't have it anymore)
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I thought there was something missing off your PC? Makes sense though since the windows on the 90s Fisher Pierces don't easily come out.
I don't know. Old mainlighter? Lifeline? Westie blackender?
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I think it was the 1976 inside-etch Mainlighter but I totally forgot about the warm white Westy blackender I had for a short time back in 2012...(It had no vacuum and was warm white so when it broke it wasn't a huge loss honestly)
What's the CURRENT oldest lamp I have? (Including year/month). Hint: it's a cool white version of something I have dozens of in warm white.
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Without the hint I wouldn't have gotten this but the hint helped me out: GE mainlighter. No idea on date though. 1980s?
This is my oldest fluorescent lamp. It's daylight colored was made in 1956.
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Yep, a May 1977 F40CW Mainlighter!
A GE F14T12/D?
This is my rarest (In the United States) linear fluorescent lamp:
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You got it!
Ah IIRC, that's your Westie F20T12 with metal end caps.
The location I am considering mounting a street light now:
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Close, that would be 2nd! It's a Thorn F15T8 "Tropical Daylight" lamp. Look waaaay back in my gallery on LG.
The shed!
These are the main spiral CFL lighting the majority of my house in places which haven't been replaced with linear fluorescents (yet!)
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Hmm, I have no idea lol. I know they're probably 5000K or 6500K though lol.
This is the light currently installed in my bedroom (currently my only 100W MV cobrahead).
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Haha it's so funny you should say that since just prior to reading that post I glanced up at the Philips Daylight Deluxe lamp I'm under and thought "Man, isn't that a nice departure from all the 2700K triphosphor spirals in other rooms?". No, they're mostly 13w 2700K GE "helical" units. Good lamps, although not the best color IMO...but at one point I had like 28 of the darn things, 8 of which were given to me brand new for free and the other 20 for .50 each on sale in a supermarket end display. But as they die trust me 6500K will be going in for sure! Or more linear fluorescents.
M-250A?
This color, which renders wood greenish, can be found in many places in my house as well:
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Ah yeah there was a time where GE Helicals in 2700K could be found all over the place in my house too. The kitchen and dining room, the three bedrooms, and a couple outside lights. Then I bought LEDs for my room, recently installed 53W halogens in my parents' room for more light, replaced the CFLs in the "mushroom light" over the kitchen sink with two 800 lumen Cree warm white LEDs, which look just like incandescents with nice crisp color. The outside lights all got upgraded to 53W halogens as well and the kitchen and dining room lights each had their four CFLs replaced with MaxLite A-shaped CFLs, which start off very dim but warm up at about the speed of a MV lamp and are nicer looking than the exposed spirals. The old spirals had still worked, but the plastic bases were turning yellow/brown so I just wanted to play it safe and replace them. I'm trying to nudge my parents in the direction of LEDs, but so far they've resisted lol. I still have four MaxLite 14W A-shaped CFLs that are burning a hole in my pocket. I'll probably leave them when I move out lol. The thing is, other than the kitchen/dining room, where the lights are used a lot, I have no use for the CFLs. I plan to use the 53W halogens everywhere else to replace any incandescents. My brother's room is the only place left in my house with GE Helical CFLs aside from a table lamp in the basement that's never used. He had a couple of incandescents but I transferred the CFLs in my parents' room to his room when I put halogens in their room. I'll just use up my remaining 40 and 60W incandescents in his room when the CFLs die. Two of his CFLs are programmed start, not instant start, which is interesting.
Yep it was the M-250A!.
Daylight fluorescents do that! 5000K do too. Speaking of wood, we are doing cabinet-making in my construction class. It's amazing what a ripoff prefab cabinetry systems are! They're made entirely out of particleboard with a veneer/decal applied on the outside, except for the doors, which are real rood. You can construct your own cabinets that are very durable and will still cost less than a prefab one!
There are four of these fixtures at my grandma's/aunt's house.
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Yeah they're kinda greenish for sure.
Vintage "Western Electric" 2XF40 fixtures with Universal Therm-O-Matic ballasts?
Where did most of the GE Mainlighter lamps I have come from?
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Yeah. I know one has a Universal ballast, not sure of the others but I'd assume so. All the F20 versions (well the three I have at least) had GE ballasts. TBH, I'd rather have Universal F40/RS ballasts anyway. I've never seen an HPF F20/TS Universal ballast though.
Hmm didn't they come from your school? If not I have no idea. :-\
I will be getting this model GE street light some point between now and summer:
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They did but originally they came from the trash shed of the city hall/library next door. I rescued them and gave them to the school, but got them back after joining Lighting Gallery. (Actually I think I already was a LG member when I got them, but I didn't know their value yet).
I have some reduced-power Universal "Watt-Reducer" ballasts in these:
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Lithonia F96T12 slimline strips!
I will be getting this model GE street light some point between now and summer:
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Metalux F96T12 slimline strips!
A GE M-something? Not sure...
These two fixtures of mine currently have GE 34w Watt-Misers: (Well 3, if you count the one with the Ace-branded ones)
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M-250A2 FCO. I've only been talking about it for months. :P :D
I have no idea LOL, Sears shoplites?
This "light" in my bedroom originally took two incandescent lamps but I installed a PL9 retrofit kit in it and now it uses preheat PL 9 lamps.
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A 90s cheapo shoplight, a Lithonia "basket" wraparound, and a much nicer previous-generation Lithonia wrap with the Ace lamps.
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^This "light" in my bedroom originally took two incandescent lamps but I installed a PL9 retrofit kit in it and now it uses preheat PL 9 lamps.
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A Lithonia exit sign, right?
I run my house off this brand/wattage generator currently: (Not totally lighting but it has some indicator LEDs and powers all my lights often:
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Its an exit sign, but a Hubbell one. It's a metal one from October 1998 and built like a tank. 8)
Hmm 2000W Honda?
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It was for several years but now a 3000w Honda. Ideally it'll be a 10Kw Isuzu diesel once the exhaust is fixed.
I'm typing under this right now:
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One of your troffers? Or one of the slimlines?
Hmm. Gotta come up with something here...
Alright: My only clear 175W MV lamp is of this brand: ______
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Both the troffers, a 23w spiral CFL, and one of the slimlines is leaning up against the wall in the same room
I really don't know...
I run these 24/7 as nighlights:
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Sylvania.
mini x-mas lights.
my desk lamp is of this lamp type: (be as specific as you can)
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Some 5000K-ish daylight/full-spectrum 27w HF electronic compact fluorescent/
My troffers have these lamps and ballasts (be as specific as you can with brands, year made of lamps, etc)
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Yep.
Metalux Gibson F40/RS troffers with no diffusers; ones got three lamps. Dunno lamps, but I think the three lamp one has the outer lamps removed and the center lamp is a power twist?
I just mounted this light in my room (see Off Topic Topic for a dead giveaway lol)
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2-lamper has GE Chroma 50s and the 3-lamper has Sylvania Design 50s.
Without looking...a different cobrahead...
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Yes. What cobrahead? (at least take a swing at the brand. I only have three brands of cobraheads in my collection and most are a particular brand lol)
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GE or Cooper Lighting.
I moved my apple tree starts and celery stalks out from under this fixture/ballast/lamps today into actual early spring sunlight:
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[facepalm] It's a GE M-250R1...
I never knew you were growing an apple tree or celery sticks so I can't answer that, though I assume it was a grow light lol.
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It was the Bonusline-ballasted Sears shoplight, with a pair of 90s/pre-2003 GE Plant & Aquarium lamps.
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These are the worst of the energy saver fluorescent lamps I have in use:
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This is my only EOL-but-not-totally-finished off 4' lamp, since I need one for expeiments and it has some sentimental value. Also the first time I saw the brand name on anythign other than a shaver as a child, before I actually owned said lamp myself, though it was that actual lamp before it was mine:
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This is overall my favorite type/size of fluorescent:
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This color temperature is the new favorite in most areas of my house:
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These have got to be the worst-ever T12 fluorescent:
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34w T12s, or is it just Philips Econowatt. :P
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A true magnetic 3-way fluorescent adaptor, of which, only one photo of it seems to exist online. :P