Gallery of Lights
Obtaining Fixtures => Fixtures or Lamps for sale => Topic started by: joe_347V on January 19, 2014, 02:01:09 AM
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GE Gumball (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Vintage-50s-GE-Gumball-Street-Light-Holophane-Shade-Industrial-Antique-Lamp-NEMA-/191034323197?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c7a8870fd) Socket looks like it was designed for series operation but it dosen't have the external insulators common on series lights.
Admirals Hat? (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Vintage-BARN-GAS-STATION-STREET-LIGHT-ALUMINUM-HELMET-STYLE-SHADE-/261375593007?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cdb330a2f#viTabs_0) Missing part of the socket though.
GE NEMA (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Vintage-General-Electric-Street-Light-Industrial-age-Works-plus-comes-with-bulb-/181289404053?pt=Architectural_Garden&hash=item2a35b0c695)
GE 250w/C (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Vintage-GE-Bonus-Line-2-Mercury-2-H250C37-5-Lamp-Light-Bulb-/111259256300?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19e79185ec) Looks NOS.
100w mercury posttop ballast (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Advance-PHILLIPS-74P2802-011-100W-MERCURY-VAPOR-HID-LAMP-Ballast-H-38-120V-250V-/121238780039?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c3a64f887)
100w mercury ballast, core and coil type (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Advance-71A2571-001D-core-and-coil-ballast-kit-H-38-or-H-44-mercury-light-100W-/141130399225?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20dc06fdf9)
F40T12 Tulamp ballast (http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAGNETEK-PRE-HEAT-BALLAST-205-TC-P-120-VOLTS-60-HERTZ-/161132612298?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2584408aca)
F20T12 HPF trigger start ballast (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Advance-HM-1P20-TP-Ballast-for-1-F20T12-Preheat-Lamps-at-120-Volts-/290733067891?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b10a8e73)
100w mogul based clear mercs (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-2-Philips-H38HT-100-Lifegaurd-Mercury-Vapor-Bulb-100Watt-Mogul-Base-Clear-/221317102585?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item338786fbf9)
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That vintage bas/gas station Admiral hat is a first for me.. what's that "JONES SOCKET"?
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I "Jone's Socket" is a two-piece socket designed for series circuits ONLY. One piece is the base, which the lead wires are connected to. The Second piece is the piece in which the lamp screws into.
In order to change a lamp in a series-wired street light, the lineman would pull the Second piece out (by pulling down) and this would remove the Seond part of the socket with the lamp and the lineman would remove the lamp, install the new lamp, then stick the Second piece back into the First piece.
when the Second piece is removed from the First piece, there's a pair of tabs that close the circuit so that the other street lights remain on while the lamp is being changed. That is why Jones Sockets cannot be used on 120V standard (multiple/parallel) circuits. If you were to wire a jones socket up to a standard configuration, when you remove the Second piece from the First, you'd create a short-circuit.
In order to operate a Jone's socket on 120V multiple/parallel circuits, you'd need to modify the First piece so that the internal spring-loaded tabs don't close the circuit when the Second piece is removed.
The reason for the Jones socket was so that the rest of the lights would remain on during a lamp change. Also, since the series circuit presents dangerous current, a screw-base lamp would arc while it was being screwed in which would be bad so the jones socket was developed to allow the other lights to still work and so that the lamp could be changed without being connected to power.
IMO, it would have made more sense to just change the lamps during the daytime so they wouldn't have to worry about power being present but i guess that never registered to them lol.
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Right. Smart. Thanks. Such an odd looking fixture. I've assumed this was used with an incandescant lamp(?). Whoever buys it, hope they rewire with a modern socket. But I suppose if anyone attempted to wire it as is, the tabs on the remaining part is now closed, causing a short.
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The tabs will only close if the removable piece is removed. When the removable piece is in place, the tabs are open, making the current flow through the lamp. (the removeable piece is the piece in which the lamp screws into).
So as long as you don't remove the part that the lamp screws into while the light is connected to power, you're all set.
here's what a Jone's socket looks like. (http://www.galleryoflights.org/mb/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-4198) The removable piece that the lamp screws into is to the left and the part that is fixed in the fixture is to the right.