Yeah, I need to find both Reveal and Incandescent Fluorescent, just to have. I prefer daylight lamps though anyway.
My bathroom gets pretty cold (like 55F) on subfreezing days/nights, which I don't like for that room. Granted, the floor isn't insulated and there's two 3X3 single-pane windows in there.
I think all but literally one of the rapid start lights in my house are ungrounded. And this time of year when it's humid, yes I do experience starting issues as a result! Especially with my Universal HPF full power ballasts. I really should ground all those...
Yeah, the quality was never there but their fixtures were/are pretty neat for their time (and even now). Never had issues with voltage spikes frying them but it did indeed run on modified sine wave inverter electricity quite a bit. But I've run other electronic ballasts just fine on MSW without issues so I doubt that was it, rather my humid climate/rain on average 300 days a year. Same for magnetic; they work fine though LPF ones don't do nearly as well, running dimmer and flickering noticeably. So I basically consider it urban legend that you can't run a fluorescent light on a modified sine wave inverter, since I've been doing it for years now with everything from spiral CFLs to small preheat fluorescents to F40/RS to an 8 foot slimline!
As for the neutral thing, another bad thing that could happen (I think but maybe I'm wrong) is that if somewhere ahead of that appliance the hot and neutral are reversed, you could be shocked. A fairly modern house like yours should be fine in that regard, but a house like mine is a place where I wouldn't want to do that. I tested all the outlets I could find when we first moved in and first powered the (off grid) house up again, with one of those neon testers with flying leads you stick into an outlet and as I recall all the grounds were hooked up (hot to ground made the tester light up) but I also remember being able to go from the neutral side to ground and have it light up...at least I think so, this was five years ago now. So really no way to check polarity without one of those fancier testers, which I don't have. Whoever did most of the wiring (In fact I think I know who it was) did a decent job, though I still know of things I doubt would pass a "real" inspection by a building inspector. Most of my wiring is, I'd say, post-1985. (White Essex brand Romex, Eagle devices, Carlon blue plastic boxes). The house was built at literally ten different times as of now, and originally there was/still is black 1970s NM romex, though I think most of the meal boxes except for the bathroom light are now gone. (I think of those little tiny older metal boxes as nothing but a shock hazard should something arc and weld itself to the box. Granted, plastic can catch fire). There's one area with some really weird, unidentified stuff going on though where it wouldn't surprise me if something was backwards somewhere...I have no idea where some of those wires go.
As of now, the house has original black romex from the 70s, though not much anymore that's used, white "Exxex" Romex, some other, newer white stuff from 2000-2002-ish, and finally some (salvaged from a house teardown but it was still pretty new) yellow "Southwire" stuff. Most wiring devices are Eagle, with a few Cooper and Leviton and possibly others thrown in here and there. Wirenuts...mostly red winged ones, then smaller orange ones (that we've used in stuff we've added/modified) and finally some (salvaged with the yellow cable) Ideal push-in connectors. And there's some SJTW extension cord wire in a few places too, wired to actual devices/boxes. (All done by me years ago).
So yeah, a total mishmash! Only things missing are 1950s "rope" type cloth/asbestos Romex, BX cable, aluminum (Thankfully! That stuff is so dangerous is misused, and my house is originally old enough but as far as I know there is none) and of course knob and tube.
I am not afraid of knob and tube, unlike many people, as long as it's in good shape and not overloaded I think it should be just fine. Same with that '50s cloth/asbestos stuff. Only thing I might get rid of is aluminum, or at least inspect it to make sure it's used right.
FYI in case you ever come across it, aluminum is usually found in lower-cost houses built in the 1960s and 70s. In "quick and dirty" scenarios like tract housing, it was cheaper. But it has a higher resistance than copper, so you need to use the next size up (like with copper #14 can handle 15 amps, but with aluminum you'd need #12 for 15A). Since this wasn't often realized, this can be an issue. Another big issue is compatibility with switches, receptacles, etc: they weren't designed with aluminum in mind. If you see "CU only" it means copper only. If you see CU-AL then aluminum should be fine, at least from what I understand. A common (and terrible) method of fixing the incompatibility is "pigtailing" in boxes, where you splice a piece of copper wire on to the aluminum wire, then hook the copper up to the switch/receptacle. But that has issues, too: wirenut incompatibility, more connections to overheat and fail, etc. So be careful in older houses! I bet the black stuff powering the preheat F40 shoplights in your aunt and uncle's basement could very well be aluminum, since that's a '60s-'70s setup.