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Advance 100W M90 Ballast 
From the Post Top fixtures that are now LED
Keywords: Gear

Advance 100W M90 Ballast

From the Post Top fixtures that are now LED

3~2.jpg Cap.jpg Ballast.jpg 100WMHPT.jpg 1~2.jpg
File information
Filename:Ballast.jpg
Album name:LampLover84 / My Lamp Stuff
Keywords:Gear
Company and Date Manufactured:Advance
Model Number:71A5380
Wattage:100Watt M90/M140
Lamp Type:Pulse Start Metal Halide
Filesize:185 KiB
Date added:Mar 11, 2014
Dimensions:1395 x 904 pixels
Displayed:379 times
Color Space:sRGB
DateTime Original:2014:03:11 18:24:55
Exposure Bias:0 EV
Exposure Mode:0
Exposure Time:1/60 sec
FNumber:f/7.1
Flash:Red Eye, Auto-Mode
Focal length:5.8 mm
ISO:100
Make:Canon
Max Aperture:f/2.6
Model:Canon PowerShot A550
URL:http://www.galleryoflights.org/mb/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=17158
Favorites:Add to Favorites

Comment 1 to 20 of 26
Page: 1 - 2

streetlight98   [Mar 11, 2014 at 10:59 PM]
Yeah i wouldn't use this until you get a new cap only because if it's damaged it most likely isn't regulating the current correctly so it could damage the lamp or further damge itself. You don't need to worry about PCBs though since PSMH gear wasn't around back in the 70s and before when PCBs were used.
rjluna2   [Mar 12, 2014 at 11:30 AM]
Nice grab, LampLover84 Smile
LampLover84   [Mar 13, 2014 at 09:26 PM]
Thanks all!

Too bad I got the one with a bum capacitor as there were over 300 of these being changed to Light Emitting Corn Cob but I had to get the broken one Rolling Eyes
but at least I got Something which is way better then nothing Smile
Also this place is now way under lit as those new LED do absolutely nothing
as for one they kept the glass shield and those stupid LEDS are sitting way too high in the fixture that was Not designed for the LED lamps

I am going to go to the Habitat for Humanity restore (Stratford CT, If anyone knows that area) on Saturday and see if I can get a cheap flood light or wall pack type of fixture for the ballast and lamp as I don't want to risk an exploding lamp inside the house

By the way my name is Peter
and my name on that other lighting site Razz is LampLover (With out the 84 on the end which is my birth year)
streetlight98   [Mar 14, 2014 at 12:27 AM]
Was this the only one left? If not they probably gave you this one because they're going to resell the other ones and figured they might as well give you this one since it's not worth anything moneywise. But if you can get a new cap it'll work like a gem again!

Yeah I wouldn't ever run a MH lamp out in the open either. I even get concerned running a Mh lamp enclosed in a fixture if the arc tube is blackened.

My name is Mike and the 98 in my username is my birthyear as well.
LampLover84   [Mar 14, 2014 at 12:33 AM]
No this was not the only one left as their truck was full of them but this one was still on the ground and not the truck
I have priced these type of ballasts and they go from $70 and up
also the guy said they probably won't notice one missing as they overbought the LED lamps
(Which was a good thing as some of them were dead right out of the package)
So yes they probably wanted them for scrap Shocked Which is where the LEDS belong not these an 95% of them were working the night before

Edit
When is a MH lamp most likely to explode?
I am thinking at the startup pulse
But I don't exactly know the correct answer
streetlight98   [Mar 14, 2014 at 02:14 AM]
no a MH lamp will explode after it has ran for a while. If you don't run it for long persiod of time you lower the risk of explosion. You can get a 100W PSMH ballast for around 30 dollars. Whoever was charging you 70 bucks was ripping you off big time. Shocked
joe_347V   [Mar 15, 2014 at 06:41 AM]
Yeah, I believe a MH lamp near explosion will just refuse to strike instead of exploding. That's why the warnings on lamp boxes suggest to switch off MH lamps for an hour or so every two weeks if they are on 24/7 to reduce the risk of explosion.

Ballast kits here are around 50-70 but I usually prowl Restore for HID ballasts which sells them for around 15-20 a ballast (new/NOS).
LampLover84   [Mar 15, 2014 at 02:28 PM]
I went to restore yesterday and there were Zero HID fixtures, So I guess it varies greatly what each restore carries
streetlight98   [Mar 15, 2014 at 03:08 PM]
Yeah Restores vary a lot because what they have depends on what people in the area donate. As far as I know, they don't trade products with each other. I've never gotten anything HID from my local restore but one ReStore in Putnam, CT had some really old NOS MV lamps i bought and it had some interesting fixtures that I passed up on.
lights*plus   [Mar 15, 2014 at 10:03 PM]
Hm..This is a perfect match if you want to install this advance ballast in my black tall fixture. Not only that, but I have 2 paired up ignitor plus 12mfd capacitors available for your 71A5380 (not tested yet)..both ballasts & sockets had completely rusted out (in other completely water/snow damaged fixtures).
A_lights   [Mar 15, 2014 at 10:44 PM]
If this is HX you can run it fine without the cap..
TiCoune66   [Mar 16, 2014 at 01:59 AM]
Correct. It'll just draw more amps. Only with constant wattage ballasts you gotta be very careful when replacing the cap, since it contributes to the lamp's regulation. Your ballast indeed looks like a HX, whose capacitor only corrects the power factor. In residential applications PF is of little importance, because only active power is billed, unlike larger commercial buildings and industries.
streetlight98   [Mar 16, 2014 at 02:12 AM]
ahh so with HPF reactor and reactance ballasts the capacitor isn't necessary? Do you know if it would be necessary here?
lights*plus   [Mar 16, 2014 at 06:15 AM]
@ TiCoune66 "In residential applications PF is of little importance". On a 15amp breaker I got 400w, 250w, and a 70w lamps running at once (~820 circuit watts). If they're all HPF, what do you think my current draw is at peak? About 8 amps. And if they were NPF? Wouldn't wanna try it.
streetlight98   [Mar 16, 2014 at 02:40 PM]
Yeah but with NPF you don't go by the amp rating do you? I thought the amps consumed by NPF and LPF didn't actually "exist", as you don't get billed for them.
joe_347V   [Mar 16, 2014 at 07:47 PM]
With NPF ballasts the amps still matter as 15A worth of NPF ballasts will still be a 15A load at the breaker, but they don't bill you for those amps since their meters can't detect the reactive power from a NPF load. A NPF load will still have "real" power and the meter can detect that.

I'm not sure but I think the newer electronic meters can detect the reactive power from a NPF load so I have a feeling they might start billing for NPF loads in the future.
TiCoune66   [Mar 16, 2014 at 08:30 PM]
Of course, that's why I said "little", and not NO importance xD If you run a bunch of NPF ballasts at once it sure is better to add caps to draw less amps LOL.
streetlight98   [Mar 16, 2014 at 09:39 PM]
Ahh so maybe i don't need a new capacitor in my OV-15TD then. Since the cap has rusted out terminals and I don't think the rating is legible.
joe_347V   [Mar 16, 2014 at 11:50 PM]
Yeah, with reactor ballasts, the cap is optional so you don't really need to use it. If you wanted to get a replacement cap, the ballast label also might list the cap volt and MFD ratings.
LampLover84   [Mar 20, 2014 at 06:39 PM]
2 things

About the new LED lamps
The management in the complex admits that they screwed up the lighting refit and that the company took advantage of the complex
They are now going to put the "Proper" LED type fixtures in Confused
The only things I like LEDS for are an indicator (EX: Power/Hard Disk LED on a computer) and Low power flashlights
for real illumination I hate them

Two
if I do get rid of the capacitor how do I modify the circuit?
Just cut the cap out and insulate the leads or short the two wires together
Yes I am idiot with ballasts so I thought I'd ask before I trip a breaker or ruin the ballast or ruin myself Razz

Thanks

@ Vince about the cap failing open I guess this one really failed Open Laughing

Comment 1 to 20 of 26
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