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Philips F20T12

Here is a Philips F20T12 3000K Ultralume fluorescent lamp.

Made in: USA

Manufactured: May 1994

DSC06893_Philips_Alto_F40T12_Daylight.JPG OV-25_Flat_Bottom_In_Abbotsford_Nov_1968.jpg 475_Philips_F20T12_30U.JPG DSC06885_Dialight_L-810_LED_Obstruction_Light.JPG DSC03945_Lite_Lovin.JPG
File information
Filename:475_Philips_F20T12_30U.JPG
Album name:lite_lover / Fluorescent Lamps
Keywords:Lamps
Company and Date Manufactured:Philips
Model Number:F20T12/30U
Wattage:20W
Lamp Type:Fluorescent
Filesize:59 KiB
Date added:May 23, 2015
Dimensions:1024 x 768 pixels
Displayed:1634 times
Color Space:sRGB
Contrast:0
DateTime Original:2009:03:08 21:11:32
Exposure Bias:0 EV
Exposure Mode:0
Exposure Program:Program
Exposure Time:1/8 sec
FNumber:f/3.2
Flash:No Flash
Focal length:9.2 mm
ISO:120
Light Source:Unknown: 0
Make:Sony
Max Aperture:f/2.8
Model:DSC-W1
URL:http://www.galleryoflights.org/mb/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=19373
Favorites:Add to Favorites

Comment 1 to 12 of 12
Page: 1

GEsoftwhite100watts   [May 23, 2015 at 04:38 PM]
GEsoftwhite100watts
How is it compared to a standard /WW in color and brightness?

lite_lover   [May 23, 2015 at 11:24 PM]
lite_lover
The brightness is about the same,looks better than a WW,pretty much like a GE Kitchen & Bath.

GEsoftwhite100watts   [May 24, 2015 at 04:59 PM]
GEsoftwhite100watts
Ah OK so that peachy-orange, not pinkish-green?

lite_lover   [May 24, 2015 at 09:00 PM]
lite_lover
I would say more of a peachy-orange.

GEsoftwhite100watts   [May 24, 2015 at 10:31 PM]
GEsoftwhite100watts
Wow sounds like it's still pretty ugly! Laughing Shame it's not an Ultralume 5000K or 6500K. Laughing
(no offese to /WW fans of course).

streetlight98   [May 24, 2015 at 11:03 PM]
streetlight98
Oh yeah. I had a pair of GE Kitchen & Bath F40T12s from the ReStore in Worcester, MA. I only bought them because they were pre-Ecolux. One got a hairline crack and stopped working. I just noticed yesterday that the other one's got a hairline crack in the same spot (about 1/8 or 1/4" from the endcap on the etch end) and this one goes like 2/3 of the way around the tube! I haven't tested it to see if it works. I Might install it until it works but I'd want to put it in a light with a diffuser so the lamp doesn't fall to the ground when/if the crack spread all the way around. I don't have any 4ft fixtures with diffusers (I have the parabolic troffer but it only fits T8s).

lite_lover   [May 25, 2015 at 08:38 AM]
lite_lover
@ Andy: Nah it's not that bad. Laughing Similar to a halogen.

@ Mike: I had a lamp from Restore too that formed a hairline crack.Recently had one new Philips ALTO that developed a crack and stopped working after only a few hours of use.

GEsoftwhite100watts   [May 27, 2015 at 01:32 AM]
GEsoftwhite100watts
I was carrying home a "Buyer's Choice" (Sylvania) lamp I already had the other day and while carrying it I noticed it was indeed really lightweight! Laughing

lite_lover   [May 27, 2015 at 05:13 AM]
lite_lover
Very thin. Laughing

GEsoftwhite100watts   [May 27, 2015 at 02:38 PM]
GEsoftwhite100watts
I've had a newer (2011) Sylvania crack at the endcap while installing in a fixture. Laughing

streetlight98   [May 27, 2015 at 08:45 PM]
streetlight98
I've noticed that a GE F40T12 weighs almost twice as much as a Philips F40T12. Laughing Pretty crazy! I always thought maybe GE used a heavier endcap cement or it was because GEs have more mercury (and maybe those two things do factor into the lamp weight) but it seems more likely that Altos just use REEEEEALLY thin glass. Laughing Sylvania is actually the only brand lamp that I haven't seen cracked on the end. I've seen a couple GEs get cracked near the endcap and same for Altos.

GEsoftwhite100watts   [May 28, 2015 at 06:04 AM]
GEsoftwhite100watts
Really? 90s Sylvanias are notorious for cracking at the ends apparently. Vince lost a nice F96T12/D (pre-EPACT, halophosphate, full mercury, 75w) that way.
I lost a 2011 Cool White Plus the same way.


Comment 1 to 12 of 12
Page: 1