LOL you have to admit smashing holes and drywall is fun though... In my case there were pieces of the kitchen cabinets all the way at the end of the dining room!
Was the power disconnected by the time you got there?
Same in my case. I thought about cutting out a piece of the 1950s Romex but did not...did that house have the black NM stuff? I sure hope it wasn't aluminum!
The wiring was all copper with plastic jacketed romex that had the paper strips between the conductors,just the range and dryer cables were the round fabric tar type jacket 8/3 & 10/3, NMWU was used for an outside power source for the septic pump.The only aluminum cable was the #4 aluminum teck cable I put in for a 100 amp service to the shop.
Was the Romex the black-jacketed stuff though? The house I lived in that was torn down was built in 1955 and had the cloth stuff, the black NM and the white NM.
Personally I think those paper strips are just a little bit of an inherent fire hazard if the wire overheats...
Interesting! Light blue or a really bright blue? Here it was black, then white. Now #12 is yellow, #14 is white, and #10 is orange. NM direct burial here is gray. I guess our countries have different color codes which is surprising for being next door to each other!
BTW it just occurred to me...do you guys have the same fluorescent CRI/LPW regulations we do now? (F40s must be 87CRI and/or 89LPW)....
It was a medium to dark blue,kind of like a blue photocontrol. Not long after that time the #14 was all white and still is, #12 was also white but now it's yellow here too. #10/2 was white,now it's orange, but #10/2 for electric heating is red. I'm not sure on the CRI/LPW if the same regulations apply here.
Light and bright are the same thing. Hmm the romex near me is 12AWG yellow, 14AWG white, 240V orange. Never seen blue romex. The outdoor rated romex here is gray with the gray coating actually surrounding the wires, not just a thin jacket, the gray actually is formed around the conductors which makes stripping it a pain. Personally when running underground cable I'd ideally run it through conduit. I don't believe RI requires it though.
@ Andy; Darren can probably answer this better than I can, but from what I understand, Canada doesn't regulate the fluorescents but the fluorescent lamps are compliant with the US regulations anyway. If you wanted to import a case of foreign lamps in Canada you probably could... Probe start MH fixtures are still allowed in Canada but MV isn't. And i think incandescents faced the same regulations.
BTW, i got a used no-name Philips-made F40CW from 1994 today. It was in one of the closet lights in one of the apartment rooms my grandpa owns (he owns a 4-room apartment next door to his house and is the landlord) It's the only apartment of the four that has closet lights. They're single lamp strips with pullchains from the 90s. The other three don't have closet lights. There are two closet lights total in that apartment. The other one still has the original lamp which I assume is also a 40W Philips no-name. The date on it is May 1994. When i stuck in a new lamp it wouldn't light so i left it on and it all of a sudden lit up. Then after that it lit each time, though the new lamp is much dimmer than the strip in the other closet. The new lamp is a 2013 CWS Alto, 40W. Anyway, i took the old lamp home since it's a full-wattage full-mercury lamp and turns out it works fine. Just a crappy ballast I guess. Those are the only two linear fluorescents in the appartment building besides the LOA shoplite over the washer and dryer in the basement and the 2X F17T8 wrap light I installed in the basement to replace a keyless socket for more light as a temporary fix until they get linear fluorescents installed in there. The appartment basement has four of five pullchains (counting the F17T8 fixture i installed) and is about the size of their basement, which has seven 4X F40T12 troffers and two 2X F40T12 wraps and a single lamp electronic T12 strip i installed over the sink down there. And their basement could even use MORE light lol.
Basically, half of the apartment basement doesn't have any lights and the few that are there are useless really since you need a flashlight to get to them anyways. I keep telling them I can do it but they said they want their handyman to do it. I don't see why, he's not liscensed so it doesn't really make a difference if i do it or if he does it and I can do it much cheaper (well, whatever they want to pay me) and I can figure out exactly how many fixtures they will need.
I wonder if a NOS case of F40CWs or F96T12/CWs could be imported them? (something banned 20 years ago now).
Nice score! Your family has a lot of fluorescents!
BTW I got a 40w lamp to run in the preheater by twisting it to disengage the starter at just the right moment...it seems to run the ballast much cooler!
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Was the power disconnected by the time you got there?
Personally I think those paper strips are just a little bit of an inherent fire hazard if the wire overheats...
BTW it just occurred to me...do you guys have the same fluorescent CRI/LPW regulations we do now? (F40s must be 87CRI and/or 89LPW)....
Did you know you're not supposed to use solid-core wire on boats? (It must be stranded)...
@ Andy; Darren can probably answer this better than I can, but from what I understand, Canada doesn't regulate the fluorescents but the fluorescent lamps are compliant with the US regulations anyway. If you wanted to import a case of foreign lamps in Canada you probably could... Probe start MH fixtures are still allowed in Canada but MV isn't. And i think incandescents faced the same regulations.
BTW, i got a used no-name Philips-made F40CW from 1994 today. It was in one of the closet lights in one of the apartment rooms my grandpa owns (he owns a 4-room apartment next door to his house and is the landlord) It's the only apartment of the four that has closet lights. They're single lamp strips with pullchains from the 90s. The other three don't have closet lights. There are two closet lights total in that apartment. The other one still has the original lamp which I assume is also a 40W Philips no-name. The date on it is May 1994. When i stuck in a new lamp it wouldn't light so i left it on and it all of a sudden lit up. Then after that it lit each time, though the new lamp is much dimmer than the strip in the other closet. The new lamp is a 2013 CWS Alto, 40W. Anyway, i took the old lamp home since it's a full-wattage full-mercury lamp and turns out it works fine. Just a crappy ballast I guess. Those are the only two linear fluorescents in the appartment building besides the LOA shoplite over the washer and dryer in the basement and the 2X F17T8 wrap light I installed in the basement to replace a keyless socket for more light as a temporary fix until they get linear fluorescents installed in there. The appartment basement has four of five pullchains (counting the F17T8 fixture i installed) and is about the size of their basement, which has seven 4X F40T12 troffers and two 2X F40T12 wraps and a single lamp electronic T12 strip i installed over the sink down there. And their basement could even use MORE light lol.
Basically, half of the apartment basement doesn't have any lights and the few that are there are useless really since you need a flashlight to get to them anyways. I keep telling them I can do it but they said they want their handyman to do it. I don't see why, he's not liscensed so it doesn't really make a difference if i do it or if he does it and I can do it much cheaper (well, whatever they want to pay me) and I can figure out exactly how many fixtures they will need.
Nice score! Your family has a lot of fluorescents!
BTW I got a 40w lamp to run in the preheater by twisting it to disengage the starter at just the right moment...it seems to run the ballast much cooler!