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Dying LED MR16
This was installed only a few months ago in a church meeting room. I know its hard to tell in this picture, but most of the LEDs are out or dim.
Keywords: Lit_Lighting

Dying LED MR16

This was installed only a few months ago in a church meeting room. I know its hard to tell in this picture, but most of the LEDs are out or dim.

CIMG4968.JPG CIMG4970.JPG CIMG3735.JPG CIMG3533.JPG CIMG3196.JPG
File information
Filename:CIMG3735.JPG
Album name:rlshieldjr / Low Voltage
Keywords:Lit_Lighting
Filesize:38 KiB
Date added:Apr 03, 2011
Dimensions:480 x 367 pixels
Displayed:198 times
Color Space:sRGB
Contrast:0
DateTime Original:2011:03:31 22:29:30
Exposure Bias:0 EV
Exposure Mode:0
Exposure Program:Program
Exposure Time:1/60 sec
FNumber:f/5.6
Flash:Flash, Auto-Mode
Focal length:6.2 mm
ISO:100
Light Source:Unknown: 0
Make:Casio Computer Co.,ltd.
Max Aperture:f/2.8
Model:EX-Z9
URL:http://www.galleryoflights.org/mb/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=5864
Favorites:Add to Favorites

Comment 1 to 11 of 11
Page: 1

GullWhiz   [Apr 03, 2011 at 02:25 PM]
Not really hard to tell...I see it! Cool
rjluna2   [Apr 03, 2011 at 07:36 PM]
Ugh! Tell me about this ugly lumen maintenace on this LEDs bulb Razz
Silverliner14B   [Apr 03, 2011 at 08:46 PM]
The sign of the times, man. One thing tho, this one is a cheap-o with the dreaded 5mm LEDs which dim quite rapidly.
GullWhiz   [Apr 03, 2011 at 08:48 PM]
If using the type with heat sink would do a better job....in comparable of THIS! This was exactly what I saw was going on from my Columbia mall...but they did some action due to this issue by using special type of CFL which actually looked good (they had to change the wiring but using same fixtures)
TiCoune66   [Apr 03, 2011 at 08:54 PM]
Philips had a BRILIANT idea by using remote-phosphored blue LEDs! In my opinion white LEDs won't be the technology used in the future. Single-coloured LEDs (without any phosphors) are more efficient and don't suffer lumen loss as much over time.
GullWhiz   [Apr 03, 2011 at 08:56 PM]
I will agree with that one....I have never tried the lamp, and it's my wanted lamp in my list...but $$$???
Silverliner14B   [Apr 03, 2011 at 09:27 PM]
I was told by lighting professionals that CFLs will likely win out as the long term solution, due to the high cost and physical limitations of omnidirectional LEDs. Halogen IR lamps also hold potiential for the long term. TCP is supposedly coming out with a new Halogen IR lamp that uses HALF the wattage of the old INCs.

This is not to say LEDs don't have a future, they are best in optical applications where they are the most efficient with very little loss of light. Examples include track lighting, street lighting, etc.
TiCoune66   [Apr 04, 2011 at 01:30 AM]
I actually *kinda* prefer to see CFLs than LEDs, because CFLs are way more fun to mess with than LEDs (taking them apart and repair them, messing with burnt out CFL tubes, etc.).

That being said, I'm gonna avoid using CFLs in any fixture that isn't both or either open or horizontal/base down anyway, prefering halogens for enclosed and base-up fixtures.
GullWhiz   [Apr 04, 2011 at 02:14 AM]
A good thing about LEDs....remove the old LED, put in a colored one in! Wink
dor123   [Apr 04, 2011 at 07:38 AM]
The LED lamps with the many 5mm LEDs, tends to fail, earlier then the ones with the several HPLEDs, because most of them are from unknown brands or poor brands from China.
Also, i think that in these low cost LED lamps, are LED drivers that are nothing more then a series capacitor and bridge rectifier, and if the lamps aren't flickers, then also filtering capacitor for mains frequency filtering.
Vince: The lumen loss over life that you see in white LEDs, is in fact related usually to the diodes themselves, and this can happen with single color LEDs as well.
Phosphor fading in white LEDs, expressed as a major color shifting toward high kelvin bluish white color and then blue, in addition to lumen loss.
SeanB~1   [Apr 04, 2011 at 07:35 PM]
I have a cheap LED torch that has one failing die, which starts of by flickering slowly, getting faster and dimmer as it warms up then eventually just glowing very faintly. I will replace it with another, and think the faulty die had a slightly lower Vf and a lower slope resistance that caused it to be a current hog, as the 3 dice are in parallel in this torch, driven by a boost converter in a SO 3 pin package. I will add a bypass capacitor to the input when fixing it, whatever scrap SMD tantalum I can get with around 10-33 uF and a 6V rating that will fit there. It helps a lot as the battery ages, especially in remotes, as the battery ESR can get very high before the unit stops operating, you can use a battery that will no longer run a clock and still get some work out of it.

Comment 1 to 11 of 11
Page: 1