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Cold Cathode Fluorescent Nightlight
Decent fluorescent nightlights are very hard to find - most are hot-cathode types with a capacitive-resistive ballast that quickly kill the lamp. The only other choices now are LED and incandescent. However, I found a pair of these cold-cathode lights at Ace Hardware - they were expensive, but they don't flicker, and they last. This one has been in use about 4 hours a night since 2007.
Keywords: Indoor_Fixtures

Cold Cathode Fluorescent Nightlight

Decent fluorescent nightlights are very hard to find - most are hot-cathode types with a capacitive-resistive ballast that quickly kill the lamp. The only other choices now are LED and incandescent. However, I found a pair of these cold-cathode lights at Ace Hardware - they were expensive, but they don't flicker, and they last. This one has been in use about 4 hours a night since 2007.

AA_Lantern2+.JPG Bedroom_Wraparound+.JPG CCFL_Nightlight+.JPG Mercury_vaportite_lit+.JPG OV25_inside+.JPG
File information
Filename:CCFL_Nightlight+.JPG
Album name:vaporeyes / Luminaire Collection
Keywords:Indoor_Fixtures
Company and Date Manufactured:Leviton, June 2007
Model Number:0CCFL
Wattage:3
Lamp Type:Cold cathode fluorescent tube (non-replaceable)
Filesize:29 KiB
Date added:Feb 20, 2012
Dimensions:613 x 439 pixels
Displayed:116 times
URL:http://www.galleryoflights.org/mb/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=10807
Favorites:Add to Favorites

Comment 1 to 14 of 14
Page: 1

LampLover84   [Feb 21, 2012 at 03:01 AM]
I had a 1 Watt Fluorescent Night Light and it only lasted 3 Months (24/7) It was only switched one once (When I first plugged it in) The brand was Good Choice (I think I should rename the brand Bad Choice Lol!)
Oh I hope you flipped the picture over as otherwise your outlet is upside down Laughing
LilCinnamon   [Feb 21, 2012 at 03:16 PM]
That is actually the code way to mount an outlet, ground up, it's more safe then ground down, because if something hits the metal prongs if the outlet is hanging out a little bit you would it rather hit the ground instead of the main electricity. Most people tend to install outlets ground down for some reason..
gailgrove   [Feb 21, 2012 at 04:49 PM]
Code DOES NOT specify which way to orient receptacles, ground up is the better way however and I mount all of mine that way.
streetlight98   [Feb 21, 2012 at 04:54 PM]
Niall is correct. Code allows either ground up or ground down. I personally prefer ground down although ground up is supposed to be safer.
vaporeyes   [Feb 22, 2012 at 02:27 AM]
I removed & replaced this receptacle upside-down so I can have it in the bottom socket (closer to the countertop, therefore more light to the sink where I need it) and still be able to turn it on & off when other things are plugged in (the plug is polarized, and the switch is a push button on top of the light). I too have heard about having the grounding pin on top for safety if the plug starts falling out, but then it looks like an upside-down face. The only other place I have an outlet upside-down in my house is in the kitchen, feeding the microwave (so the silly right-angle plug goes the right way).
HPSM250R2   [Feb 22, 2012 at 02:34 AM]
I have seen receptacles installed ground up. But only in industrial buildings like schools or hospitals. BTW, I like those red and orange receptacles that you see in places like hospitals. I think orange is an isolated ground receptacle, and red is for outlets that are backed up by a generator in case of power outage. Correct me if I am wrong.
streetlight98   [Feb 22, 2012 at 02:38 AM]
yep. Orange is for isolated ground. never knew they made red ones though...
HPSM250R2   [Feb 22, 2012 at 02:52 AM]
I want to put orange ones in my room. But the guy at Graybar said i might not be able to. Something to do with the ground being different. I did buy 4 standard white receptacles and 4 white plastic backplates cause I need to replace the receptacles in my room cause the contacts are really loose. When I plug something in, the plug doesn't stay in very tight. It almost falls out of the receptacle. I also bought one gray receptacle, and a stainless steel backplate. I might install it in place of one of the white receptacles cause I like stainless steel backplates and other color receptacles instead of white. Gray, orange, and red have like a, industrial look to them. Idk lol. I just like them cause of the color. Laughing
gailgrove   [Feb 22, 2012 at 04:34 PM]
You could install isolated ground receptacles no problem, it wouldn't be 100% to code but it would be safe enough as long as both ground screws are connected to the standard bonding (ground) wire, naturally the receptacle would not actually function as a isolated ground receptacle though. Wink
streetlight98   [Feb 22, 2012 at 04:46 PM]
I still don't understand the benefit of isolated ground though. Neutral
gailgrove   [Feb 22, 2012 at 04:49 PM]
It reduces electrical "noise" for sensitive (and expensive/important) electronics that occur on the ground line, this explains it in a bit more depth.
streetlight98   [Feb 22, 2012 at 06:33 PM]
Ah so it "purifies" the gound in a way so important and expensive equippement doesn't suffer interference?
SeanB~1   [Feb 22, 2012 at 06:44 PM]
More like it has a separate wire bonded only to the ground rod, and not a wire bonded to the neutral somewhere in the system. Means a lower noise on the ground, and still provides protection.
CrazyLamp   [Mar 12, 2012 at 02:57 AM]
I use mine for 12v DC outlets that have the -- I plugs and it orange outlet to help identfi low voltage outlets while i can still plug in the old 110 volt table lamps runing 12 volt bulbs. I have -- ' -- the 240 volt plugs that is 24 volts DC and the standard plugs for 110 volts
inverter outlets. the next one is coming on line is 240 volts 50hz inverter outlets; this one will be fun as i can get play with UK and euro
lighting stuff in the future here in the US if i ever get ahold of some.

Comment 1 to 14 of 14
Page: 1