LED StreetLight, and one that even looks like a normal Cobrahead. I think its either the manufacturer is using an existing fixture with LED 'guts'? Or maybe a retrofit that was put in when this was installed?
In the same park as this one - #215 , just in a newly added parking lot. Like the other light/pole, its all brown too. (the other light is now also LED)
This is a Hubbell RMLED. They made a fixture called the RM, which was the same body but in HID. Hubbell has since discontinued the RM and it's big brother the RL. The LED versions were also discontinued. Hubbell did make a retrofit panel for existing Hubbell RM fixtures (would fit any small cobrahead though) but the product was pulled not long after it was released (maybe a year or two tops) probably due to low popularity. It's too bad; I'd have loved to see cobraheads get retrofitted to LED rather than be replaced.
The retrofit process was quite easy too:
1. Remove the refractor. Remove the reflector. Remove the lamp socket (for the GE M-250R2 and Cooper OVH lights as well as the Hubbel RM, the socket is attached to the reflector, so removing the socket is as easy as removing the reflector, which for the M-250R2s is only held in with one screw).
2. Install the LED module to the door. It installed the same way the refractor would without tools.
3. The red wire from the PC socket goes to the HID ballast. Cut that wire right where it attaches to the ballast, strip it, and connect it to the black wire on the LED module. Cut the neutral going to the ballast (or lamp socket in the case of a reactor ballast) and splice it with the neutral of the LED module.
4. The LED module comes with a safety chain in case the door accidentally opens up to prevent the door from falling off the light. The chain attaches to the top housing of the cobrahead using the same screw that held in the reflector. If the reflector was not held in with a screw, which was the case for most Westy and early Cooper lights, you can use one of the screws that held the socket in place.
5. Apply the new LED NEMA tag over the existing HID NEMA tag and close the door. Simple as that!
The ballast can remain inside the fixture, since it won't be in the way. Sure it might not look pretty inside but it saves time to leave it in and plus you won't notice with the door closed. Removing the ballast would waste a lot of time, especially since they often use hardware that requires more than a simple screwdriver to remove.
It might sound time consuming but I'd argue that removing the old fixture, going back down the pole, getting the new fixture, going back up the pole, installing the new fixture, wiring the new fixture, would take nearly as much time as just removing the reflector and socket and installing the LED module.
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![StreetLight #262 - LED Cobra
LED StreetLight, and one that even looks like a normal Cobrahead. I think its either the manufacturer is using an existing fixture with LED 'guts'? Or maybe a retrofit that was put in when this was installed?
In the same park as [url=http://www.galleryoflights.org/mb/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-19897] this one - #215 [/url], just in a newly added parking lot. Like the other light/pole, its all brown too. (the other light is now also LED)
Location:
Reynolds Landing Park, Littleton, CO
Keywords: American_Streetlights](albums/userpics/normal_SL262B.jpg "Click to view full size image
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StreetLight #262 - LED Cobra
LED StreetLight, and one that even looks like a normal Cobrahead. I think its either the manufacturer is using an existing fixture with LED 'guts'? Or maybe a retrofit that was put in when this was installed?
In the same park as [url=http://www.galleryoflights.org/mb/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-19897] this one - #215 [/url], just in a newly added parking lot. Like the other light/pole, its all brown too. (the other light is now also LED)
Location:
Reynolds Landing Park, Littleton, CO
Keywords: American_Streetlights")
The retrofit process was quite easy too:
1. Remove the refractor. Remove the reflector. Remove the lamp socket (for the GE M-250R2 and Cooper OVH lights as well as the Hubbel RM, the socket is attached to the reflector, so removing the socket is as easy as removing the reflector, which for the M-250R2s is only held in with one screw).
2. Install the LED module to the door. It installed the same way the refractor would without tools.
3. The red wire from the PC socket goes to the HID ballast. Cut that wire right where it attaches to the ballast, strip it, and connect it to the black wire on the LED module. Cut the neutral going to the ballast (or lamp socket in the case of a reactor ballast) and splice it with the neutral of the LED module.
4. The LED module comes with a safety chain in case the door accidentally opens up to prevent the door from falling off the light. The chain attaches to the top housing of the cobrahead using the same screw that held in the reflector. If the reflector was not held in with a screw, which was the case for most Westy and early Cooper lights, you can use one of the screws that held the socket in place.
5. Apply the new LED NEMA tag over the existing HID NEMA tag and close the door. Simple as that!
The ballast can remain inside the fixture, since it won't be in the way. Sure it might not look pretty inside but it saves time to leave it in and plus you won't notice with the door closed. Removing the ballast would waste a lot of time, especially since they often use hardware that requires more than a simple screwdriver to remove.
It might sound time consuming but I'd argue that removing the old fixture, going back down the pole, getting the new fixture, going back up the pole, installing the new fixture, wiring the new fixture, would take nearly as much time as just removing the reflector and socket and installing the LED module.
Thanks.. I updated the pic with that model info
I personally like the idea of that retrofit-thing. Like you say its still better than replacing the entire fixture.